... and really the Medina is all about the Djemna el Fna (or "la place" as the locals call it). It's the main square of Marrakesh and is the pumping heart of the city. Although initially daunting we seemed drawn back here again and again. Partly because all streets seems to lead there and that makes it a great place to navigate from to the other sights of the Medina and partly because it just simply buzzes with life, noise and activity all day. This makes it just a great place to watch and wander through. It's a mix of locals and tourists milling around the juice and dried fruit stalls, the snake charmers, dance troupes, henna tattoo women, men with their trained monkeys, water carriers in their traditional costume, storytellers and various other performers and at night the food stalls selling everything from sheep head and boiled snails to lamb kebabs cooking over charcoal grills.
There are a few dirty tricks used by the monkey men and snake charmers so a good place to start is to look down on the activities from one of the many cafe / restaurant terraces that surround the square. The drinks are expensive, but it's the view that you are paying for and the ability to watch the action and see the way the money making tactics work. The monkey men appeared the worst (and the saddest) as they would work in pairs. If you wanted one monkey for a photo you would get two and of course be asked to pay for both. The snake charmer's "helpers" a close second. Stray two close with your wits a little too far behind and a snake may 'find' itself around your neck. This is a chargeable service of course. Like animals sensing fear they are on you. The best course of action is to remain calm. If you can! The more frightened you look the higher the price. You get the idea.
Like this or not the square demands you take part and immerse yourself in the atmosphere. It is unapologetically fantastic. The noise of the dance troupe's drums and the call of the snake charmer instruments playing constantly with seemingly boundless energy. The thrill of avoiding capture! We take part hoping to get a few close up pictures. A water carrier obliges, for a price naturally. The snake charmer is more challenging. We want a photo of him and the cobra, but the pressure is on to have the picture of us with the snakes. Louise gets in close and I end up with a snake around my neck. I remain calm and to be honest this is not hard as I can't work out if the small snake is fake or just dead! We escape with a shot and without being extorted.
One evening we partake of the food stalls. Opting for soup and the lamb kebabs leaving the sheep brains for the locals. The salesmen are out in force enticing you in to their stall. Cockney accents apparently the weapon of choice and the banter listing Air Conditioning as a feature!! It's good fun and a great buzz - the people, the smells the smoke from the grills. The food is cheap and pretty good too. Apart from the free mint tea which looked like it had been sourced from a muddy puddle. A cold one too. We left that and for that reason were still singing the praises of the food hall the next morning if you know what I mean!!
Stretching north from the Djemaa el Fna are the souks. A labyrinth of covered market areas selling all manner of Moroccan handycrafts. I would draw comparisons with the Fes souks, but there is more happening here, with some shops doubling as the workshop, and without the annoying hassle from the false guides. You can get lost here very easily, but somehow this is less daunting and we always managed to get our bearings again. The shop keepers will definitely try to entice potential buyers in to "just look", but we are definitely more adept at not being draw by the gambits. The simplest tactic is to ignore everyone! Rude? Not really because if everyone was engaged in conversation you would get nowhere. The Fes medina scores over Marrakesh with the banning of scooters which must be constantly dodged here. You get used to that too and had some practice in Italy anyway.
Marrakesh boasts some decent sights and we explored some of these at a leisurely pace in between breakfast, lunch and the square. The Ben Youssef Medersa is a fine example of Islamic architecture and we time it better than in Fes getting more than 10 minutes inside, which is good as there is more to explore. The Marrakesh Museum is also good, but for the restored building rather than the stuff inside. The ruined el Badi Palace is good for a walk about and not least for the multitude of Storks nests on the walls. The storks provide great sunset viewing from the nearby Kozybar and use a bit of digital film, although I'm always looking the other way when one is doing something interesting (like flying!). Respect to the patience of wildlife photographers.
Sitting visible over the rooftops on the horizon are the tantalisingly close snow covered peaks of the High Atlas. We are not traveling to the Mountains or the desert that lies to the south. Those would be great, but are for another time. To take in a little of the mountains we book a Land Cruiser day trip to see just a little. Unfortunately Louise is not very well the following morning (not the one following the food stalls!) and decides not to risk going. I take the trip on my own joining a couple from Devon. The trip basically involves a drive in the mountains. They are beautiful mountains mind you. We see the Snow peaks up close and remote Berber villages at 2000m. They definitely deserve further investigation some other time.
We splurged a little on accommodation in Marrakesh opting to stay in a Riad. The same traditional Moroccan house layout (no outward windows. central open courtyard) as the place in Essaouira only a bit grander. The word Riad refers to the courtyard garden rather then the house itself and many have central fountains, although ours has a very small pool instead. The courtyard looks and feels as though inside and this Riad is actually very modest compared with some. Our Riad is close to a couple of Mosques. Ok, everywhere in the Medina is close to Mosques, but these two seem to have the minaret speaker volume cranked up to the max and pointing in our direction. I swear, at 5:30 in the morning that sound is amplified by the Riad courtyard!!
You could probably pay as much as you like to stay in a Riad in Morocco. That's the thing about Morocco and especially Marrakesh. Extremes of price exist here. In almost everything actually. Food, accommodation, goods, you name it. Alcohol is expensive, but there are a number of cool bars that sell, therefore don't go to Morocco expecting serious cheapness in everything. As a western tourist you will pay more and get ripped off at some point. Taxi drivers are the worst! Doing Morocco on the cheap would involve a few sacrifices (hot showers for example. Which would be fine in Summer), a bit of work, time and flexibility.
No matter as Marrakesh has been a great place to spend some time and get a little winter sun away from the Christmas madness. Or to do some seasonal shopping without those damn Christmas songs!!
Monday, 29 December 2008
Monday, 22 December 2008
Beach Hut Chic: Moroccan Style
If you locate Casablanca (Google displays the Arabic name Dar el Baida) on the map and follow the coast west you will come to the town of Essaouira. We didn't travel the coast taking the train inland to Marrakesh and switching to bus for the home stretch. The trains here are pretty reasonable and inexpensive too (just don't need the toilet ladies!). The number of routes are quite limited however and really only link major cities. Supratours coaches fill the gaps and operate like an extension of the rail route. You can book the ticket right through and the bus will wait for the train passengers to arrive before leaving. This is good because our train was late. It's busy too and we have to traverse many carriages before finding seats. Progress is slow as we follow an American sounding couple negotiating the aisles with huge cases. I swear I can here the clanking of kitchen sink on washing machine coming from inside. Arrival in Marrakesh equals half the train descending on the Supratours bus station. There are several coaches, lots of people and little information. We find the Essaouira coach. You need a luggage ticket said the driver motioning to a single small window surrounded by lots of people. And their bags! We join the scrum. Lou does an impressive drive forward to reach the end zone and scores a couple of baggage tickets. We're then on the coach (driven by Morpheus from the Matrix!) for an undulating ride to the coast. On arrival luggage collection is a free for all, no one checks the tags! We grab ours, make our way past the accommodation touts and into the Medina. We have a reservation, they're not pushy. The problem is we are not entirely sure where the place is. Without knowing we are nearly there, we tell one guy the name, he could point, he walks us there. We have a reservation, so unfortunately for him there is no commission this time. We step through the doors...
And relax!
And stay that way for your time here. For this is Essaouira, a chilled out place by any standard. It's essentially a resort town, but somehow that tag gives the wrong impression. The is a fantastic long beach. Great for a walk to the ruined fort while trying to avoid the camel men! Lou tried camels in Kenya and the phrase "never again" was applied!! The town is also a popular destination for wind and kite surfers getting the necessary winds. Unlike Tarifa it's calm for our stay and the kites are not to be seen. Actually this is the best weather we've had in Morocco, the showers replaced by perfect blue sky.
There is a Medina, but it's small and has an easy layout. No hustling guides here. It's crammed with craft shops, but the keepers aren't on your case to "just look". Our accommodation is in the Medina and it's superb. A converted traditional Moroccan house. Designed for the privacy of women and possibly coolness in summer, there are no outward facing windows. Instead all rooms look on to a central open courtyard. There are Moroccan elements given a contemporary touch with hints of beach hut. Especially on the roof terrace where the wood is painted in that shade of blue that only seems to exist at the seaside. It's so nice to sit outside for breakfast. The town itself goes for the white walled-blue shutter look reminding us slightly of Santorini. Well, Santorini's older more travelled uncle.
Extending into the sea from the Medina is Essaouira's working harbour. It's chock full of boats from small wooden fishing boats to larger wooden trawlers, in and out the water. It's a hive of activity as boats are re-painted, cleaned or built from scratch, nets too are made and repaired. Walking along one guy practically bundles up on to an impromptu tour of a small shipyard building the trawlers. We know he's going to ask for cash at the end, but we in along anyway as it is interesting. It's risky. We are obviously gaining some Moroccan confidence! He suggests a ridiculous amount, but doesn't get it. He gets plenty though. A good place to watch the action is from part of the old city fortifications called Skala du Port. We witness a net maker being bundled out of sight by two blokes amid much voice raising. No idea what the fuss was about, but not long after the assailed is back at the nets.
As is the norm, the Essaouira Medina is an old walled town. In some cases not all the wall survives. Here an excellent surviving rampart is the Skala de la Ville built along the rocky shore a stones throw from the Atlantic. The battlements are lined with canon and its here locals and tourists alike come to watch the sunset over the sea. The first night we are here there is a sizable swell slamming into the rocks just off the coast. And if you wanted Moroccan pastries with your sunset and water show, no problem. People come round the town selling them from big trays.
Catching the bus in Essaouira is a far less frantic experience. One bus, no train and a quiet ticket office. The journey is back to Marrakesh. This time as our final destination.
And relax!
And stay that way for your time here. For this is Essaouira, a chilled out place by any standard. It's essentially a resort town, but somehow that tag gives the wrong impression. The is a fantastic long beach. Great for a walk to the ruined fort while trying to avoid the camel men! Lou tried camels in Kenya and the phrase "never again" was applied!! The town is also a popular destination for wind and kite surfers getting the necessary winds. Unlike Tarifa it's calm for our stay and the kites are not to be seen. Actually this is the best weather we've had in Morocco, the showers replaced by perfect blue sky.
There is a Medina, but it's small and has an easy layout. No hustling guides here. It's crammed with craft shops, but the keepers aren't on your case to "just look". Our accommodation is in the Medina and it's superb. A converted traditional Moroccan house. Designed for the privacy of women and possibly coolness in summer, there are no outward facing windows. Instead all rooms look on to a central open courtyard. There are Moroccan elements given a contemporary touch with hints of beach hut. Especially on the roof terrace where the wood is painted in that shade of blue that only seems to exist at the seaside. It's so nice to sit outside for breakfast. The town itself goes for the white walled-blue shutter look reminding us slightly of Santorini. Well, Santorini's older more travelled uncle.
Extending into the sea from the Medina is Essaouira's working harbour. It's chock full of boats from small wooden fishing boats to larger wooden trawlers, in and out the water. It's a hive of activity as boats are re-painted, cleaned or built from scratch, nets too are made and repaired. Walking along one guy practically bundles up on to an impromptu tour of a small shipyard building the trawlers. We know he's going to ask for cash at the end, but we in along anyway as it is interesting. It's risky. We are obviously gaining some Moroccan confidence! He suggests a ridiculous amount, but doesn't get it. He gets plenty though. A good place to watch the action is from part of the old city fortifications called Skala du Port. We witness a net maker being bundled out of sight by two blokes amid much voice raising. No idea what the fuss was about, but not long after the assailed is back at the nets.
As is the norm, the Essaouira Medina is an old walled town. In some cases not all the wall survives. Here an excellent surviving rampart is the Skala de la Ville built along the rocky shore a stones throw from the Atlantic. The battlements are lined with canon and its here locals and tourists alike come to watch the sunset over the sea. The first night we are here there is a sizable swell slamming into the rocks just off the coast. And if you wanted Moroccan pastries with your sunset and water show, no problem. People come round the town selling them from big trays.
Catching the bus in Essaouira is a far less frantic experience. One bus, no train and a quiet ticket office. The journey is back to Marrakesh. This time as our final destination.
Friday, 19 December 2008
-Insert Desired Quote Here-
Mention the name Casablanca and what springs to mind? Almost inevitably it will be the black and white flick right? Even for us, not born until over thirty years after it's release! Does this speak more about the film or the Moroccan city. Well we were in town to find out what "Casa" had to offer. We've both never seen the film by the way, so this is not the reason we came. There are some curiosities and it's on the way.
Casablanca translates as white house in Spanish and comes from the time hundreds of years ago when it was a Portuguese settlement. A small Medina grew up here when they left, but contrary to what I said in the last post it's not the old city that is the attraction here. It was the French that took interest in developing the place as a port town and built the Ville Nouvelle based on Marseilles, apparently. Although we have no grounds for comparison having not been there.
So, inner city Casa is a collection of French colonial buildings incorporating Moroccan styles with a healthy chunk of Art Deco thrown in for good measure. An example of that is the Cathedral du Sacré Coeur. Think cathedral shape, but with straight minimalist lines, arabic windows and all in white! Not so required these days I guess, it could use some TLC. The driveway now a good spot for kids to play football. The TLC could be extended to much of the rest of downtown Casa to be honest. The old French grandeur still evident in the facades and coffee shops, the Art Deco touches reminiscent of British seaside towns, the glory days long since gone.
In some way Casa is just another European city. In that though is where it's difference is supposed to lie. The suggestion from the guide book is that we should be surprised by the lack of the veil, but we didn't see many in Fes either. In Casa the head scarf also conspicuous by it's absence here. Another item replaced seems to be the national drink - mint tea. The patrons of the many cafes houses all seem to be drinking coffee. Still mostly blokes and always very serious looking too it has to be said!
Casa's big site/monument is the Hassan II mosque. Built at the waters edge on reclaimed land it's big! The third largest in the world, but claiming the title of tallest minaret at 200m. Unusually for a Moroccan mosque non-Muslims are allowed in the prayer hall. There is an official line on why this is so, but the cynical could argue that with it's hefty price tag and library section still to be completed anyone's money is good money! It's not a cheap tour either. It is however an impressive piece of work. Intricate detail covering it's enormous interior.
Now, Casablanca has got nothing to do with Casablanca! It does have a Rick's Cafe though. A bar/eatery trading on the movie. I don't know why we went there as non-fans, as it's essentially a tourist trap. Although it was a cool place and while a bit pricey for Morocco no more than a pub lunch at home. It was on the way back from the Hassan II and was a better proposition than getting stared at by serious blokes!
Casablanca translates as white house in Spanish and comes from the time hundreds of years ago when it was a Portuguese settlement. A small Medina grew up here when they left, but contrary to what I said in the last post it's not the old city that is the attraction here. It was the French that took interest in developing the place as a port town and built the Ville Nouvelle based on Marseilles, apparently. Although we have no grounds for comparison having not been there.
So, inner city Casa is a collection of French colonial buildings incorporating Moroccan styles with a healthy chunk of Art Deco thrown in for good measure. An example of that is the Cathedral du Sacré Coeur. Think cathedral shape, but with straight minimalist lines, arabic windows and all in white! Not so required these days I guess, it could use some TLC. The driveway now a good spot for kids to play football. The TLC could be extended to much of the rest of downtown Casa to be honest. The old French grandeur still evident in the facades and coffee shops, the Art Deco touches reminiscent of British seaside towns, the glory days long since gone.
In some way Casa is just another European city. In that though is where it's difference is supposed to lie. The suggestion from the guide book is that we should be surprised by the lack of the veil, but we didn't see many in Fes either. In Casa the head scarf also conspicuous by it's absence here. Another item replaced seems to be the national drink - mint tea. The patrons of the many cafes houses all seem to be drinking coffee. Still mostly blokes and always very serious looking too it has to be said!
Casa's big site/monument is the Hassan II mosque. Built at the waters edge on reclaimed land it's big! The third largest in the world, but claiming the title of tallest minaret at 200m. Unusually for a Moroccan mosque non-Muslims are allowed in the prayer hall. There is an official line on why this is so, but the cynical could argue that with it's hefty price tag and library section still to be completed anyone's money is good money! It's not a cheap tour either. It is however an impressive piece of work. Intricate detail covering it's enormous interior.
Now, Casablanca has got nothing to do with Casablanca! It does have a Rick's Cafe though. A bar/eatery trading on the movie. I don't know why we went there as non-fans, as it's essentially a tourist trap. Although it was a cool place and while a bit pricey for Morocco no more than a pub lunch at home. It was on the way back from the Hassan II and was a better proposition than getting stared at by serious blokes!
Wednesday, 17 December 2008
Finding Fes
The country of Morocco as it is today only came into being when the european powers started carving up Africa at the turn of the twentieth century. It gained independence in 1956. It was France and Spain who shared the spoils, but it was France which had the greater impact on the country leaving behind, amongst others, their language as an additional national tongue. Previous to this the region can be viewed as a number of tribal dynasties competing for power. This very general history is useful in understanding the make up of many Moroccan cities. At least north of the Atlas. What results is two city areas: a new town, the Ville Nouvelle, built close to the existing old town, or Medina. This gives you the choice of staying in either or. Generally speaking the Medina is the interesting Moroccan bit you go to see, but accommodation is likely to be either cheap and possibly nasty or great and expensive. Where as in the Ville Nouvelle the choice is more european with reasonable prices, but away from the action in the Medina. Like for like accommodation in Morocco is cheaper than in Europe either way.
In Fes, we went for the moderation of the Ville Nouvelle for a number of reasons. It was close to the station, a good price, got favourable online reviews and taxis are very cheap anyway, even if you do get slightly ripped off! The Fes Medina is huge and some reviews suggested that even if you stay there you may still be far from the sites.
The size and complexity of the medieval Medina in Fes is an attribute all too readily used by the number of potential guides eager for your custom. To take a guide or not to take a guide, that is the question. There are a few options for guides: go to the tourist office and get an official guide or accept an offer from an unofficial guide, which is technically illegal. Although there doesn't seem to be a standard for one being better than the other and both apparently have an interest in taking you shopping!!
We went for a student (or was he?) And I have to say that we felt a little disappointed. His english was good, but not really good enough to be an english speaking tour guide and it was difficult to follow the route and get an idea where we were heading. Also there was a bit too many shop visits disguised under the terms of local craft traditions. The people at the workshops give you a small tour which in itself is quite interesting. Of course you then get to peruse the finished product. It's a bit awkward having had no intention of making a purchase in the first place. However the 'sell' was quite mild and we were never detained for long. In hindsight we could argue that we got to see a part of the Medina we otherwise wouldn't have seen in addition to some of the sights we really did want to. We had time to go back and look for ourselves too.
The tanneries are actually best viewed from the shop that sells the produced goods as they have a roof terrace overlooking the site. It can be a bit smelly so we got handed a sprig of mint on the way in! The view down looks over an open air area containing round pits filled with coloured dyes or pigeon poo softener! It's was still the "sheep killing" holiday so there wasn't much activity, just a few people working away in the pits. Bar a few minor details the techniques are essentially medieval. The traditional pottery was interesting too and again quiet due to the holiday.
Lying in a valley the Fes Medina can be viewed from a spot by the Merenid tombs. Historic themselves it is the view people come to see however. The guide book suggests this is a good place to come to get an orientation on the Medina. Looking down on the sprawl of rooftops punctured by minarets this seems impossible. Yes you can pick out some landmarks, but in the Medina you can't see them. Even up close. It's a nice spot for a view all the same.
We did venture into the Medina on our own. Starting at the blue gate, Bab Boujeloud. The expected hustling guides must have been on holiday as we walked straight through. It was busy in the Medina though. Not far in is the Medersa Bou Inania. A 14th century Islamic College with some elaborate decoration. A small fee (about 1€) allows a visit the courtyard. It's instantly an oasis of calm and is well worth the entry fee for that alone! For all the Medina's touted complexity it's easy enough to walk from Bab Boujeloud to the middle (and out through Bab R'clf) as one main street goes almost all the way. It's lined with souks, market areas, sometimes covered by wooden roofs. Not all the shops were open or in use, but there was enough colour and life to make it an interesting experience. Sometimes a bit pungent as the skins from the sheep festival lay in the street in piles. I didn't ask if they were for sale as this would surely indicate my interest in making a purchase. We did get hustled eventually of course. The most persistent potential guide's gambit was to protect us from hustlers!! Everyone has an opening ice breaker. An amiable question to gauge response and the language you speak, which can then descend into guilt tactics if the person is thus inclined. Almost all the sales pitched involve rubbishing the competition. It's just a case of deciding what to believe or simply ignoring everyone. Either way it take a bit of getting used to.
In Fes, we went for the moderation of the Ville Nouvelle for a number of reasons. It was close to the station, a good price, got favourable online reviews and taxis are very cheap anyway, even if you do get slightly ripped off! The Fes Medina is huge and some reviews suggested that even if you stay there you may still be far from the sites.
The size and complexity of the medieval Medina in Fes is an attribute all too readily used by the number of potential guides eager for your custom. To take a guide or not to take a guide, that is the question. There are a few options for guides: go to the tourist office and get an official guide or accept an offer from an unofficial guide, which is technically illegal. Although there doesn't seem to be a standard for one being better than the other and both apparently have an interest in taking you shopping!!
We went for a student (or was he?) And I have to say that we felt a little disappointed. His english was good, but not really good enough to be an english speaking tour guide and it was difficult to follow the route and get an idea where we were heading. Also there was a bit too many shop visits disguised under the terms of local craft traditions. The people at the workshops give you a small tour which in itself is quite interesting. Of course you then get to peruse the finished product. It's a bit awkward having had no intention of making a purchase in the first place. However the 'sell' was quite mild and we were never detained for long. In hindsight we could argue that we got to see a part of the Medina we otherwise wouldn't have seen in addition to some of the sights we really did want to. We had time to go back and look for ourselves too.
The tanneries are actually best viewed from the shop that sells the produced goods as they have a roof terrace overlooking the site. It can be a bit smelly so we got handed a sprig of mint on the way in! The view down looks over an open air area containing round pits filled with coloured dyes or pigeon poo softener! It's was still the "sheep killing" holiday so there wasn't much activity, just a few people working away in the pits. Bar a few minor details the techniques are essentially medieval. The traditional pottery was interesting too and again quiet due to the holiday.
Lying in a valley the Fes Medina can be viewed from a spot by the Merenid tombs. Historic themselves it is the view people come to see however. The guide book suggests this is a good place to come to get an orientation on the Medina. Looking down on the sprawl of rooftops punctured by minarets this seems impossible. Yes you can pick out some landmarks, but in the Medina you can't see them. Even up close. It's a nice spot for a view all the same.
We did venture into the Medina on our own. Starting at the blue gate, Bab Boujeloud. The expected hustling guides must have been on holiday as we walked straight through. It was busy in the Medina though. Not far in is the Medersa Bou Inania. A 14th century Islamic College with some elaborate decoration. A small fee (about 1€) allows a visit the courtyard. It's instantly an oasis of calm and is well worth the entry fee for that alone! For all the Medina's touted complexity it's easy enough to walk from Bab Boujeloud to the middle (and out through Bab R'clf) as one main street goes almost all the way. It's lined with souks, market areas, sometimes covered by wooden roofs. Not all the shops were open or in use, but there was enough colour and life to make it an interesting experience. Sometimes a bit pungent as the skins from the sheep festival lay in the street in piles. I didn't ask if they were for sale as this would surely indicate my interest in making a purchase. We did get hustled eventually of course. The most persistent potential guide's gambit was to protect us from hustlers!! Everyone has an opening ice breaker. An amiable question to gauge response and the language you speak, which can then descend into guilt tactics if the person is thus inclined. Almost all the sales pitched involve rubbishing the competition. It's just a case of deciding what to believe or simply ignoring everyone. Either way it take a bit of getting used to.
Wednesday, 10 December 2008
Arrival in North Africa
The ferry from Tarifa takes about 35 minutes and in that time we've switched continents! It could take longer to get to work. The ferry was almost empty. Us, another two travellers from Swansea and a handful of other people. One reason for choosing Tarifa was the idea it would be less hectic than the main ferry port at Algeciras, but this almost seems too calm.
Arrival in Tangier is no less tranquil! Given the legendary hassle one guy only "makes enquiries" as we leave the port building. There is nobody here, a small part of us feels cheated of the experience! Tangier is almost a ghost town. Walking though the new town we see only the odd person or car. Then we see them. A group of five or six guys heading our way, some with white approns, all stained with blood and carrying big knives. It's at this point where a little research pays off. Today is the religious holiday of Aid el Kebir where families that can afford it slaughter a sheep and people travel home for the event. This explains the guys with knives and the lack of people. We wondered if it would be quiet, but not this quiet. We get chatting to a Moroccan, now living in Glasgow, who explains that in Tangier many people come to work and have gone to the family home for the festival, hence the city being a quiet neighbourhood. As we wander about the evidence of the festival becomes strikingly apparent, more so in the old narrow streets of the Medina. Drops of blood on the pavement, trickles in the gutter, the water of a small channel stained dark red. At some places the full scene is happening in the street. Boys and men gather around an old drum burning with available fire wood. The only part of the sheep now visible is the head, sometimes sitting waiting, sometimes a boy hacking off the horns with a hand axe, a hornless head sometimes already on the fire the seemingly discarded horns laying in the street. The familiar smell of barbequed meat. It's possibly a scene that has changed little in centuries. It's an intense introduction to Morocco. Just not the one we were expecting. Later we stroll the quiet windy beach, Spain visible across the water.
Leaving Tangier we experience our first Moroccan train on the way to the city of Fes. The holiday is still happening so again Tangier and the train station is quiet. The other extreme will happen when the holiday ends and people return to where they live. Maybe we wont be travelling that day!
Arrival in Tangier is no less tranquil! Given the legendary hassle one guy only "makes enquiries" as we leave the port building. There is nobody here, a small part of us feels cheated of the experience! Tangier is almost a ghost town. Walking though the new town we see only the odd person or car. Then we see them. A group of five or six guys heading our way, some with white approns, all stained with blood and carrying big knives. It's at this point where a little research pays off. Today is the religious holiday of Aid el Kebir where families that can afford it slaughter a sheep and people travel home for the event. This explains the guys with knives and the lack of people. We wondered if it would be quiet, but not this quiet. We get chatting to a Moroccan, now living in Glasgow, who explains that in Tangier many people come to work and have gone to the family home for the festival, hence the city being a quiet neighbourhood. As we wander about the evidence of the festival becomes strikingly apparent, more so in the old narrow streets of the Medina. Drops of blood on the pavement, trickles in the gutter, the water of a small channel stained dark red. At some places the full scene is happening in the street. Boys and men gather around an old drum burning with available fire wood. The only part of the sheep now visible is the head, sometimes sitting waiting, sometimes a boy hacking off the horns with a hand axe, a hornless head sometimes already on the fire the seemingly discarded horns laying in the street. The familiar smell of barbequed meat. It's possibly a scene that has changed little in centuries. It's an intense introduction to Morocco. Just not the one we were expecting. Later we stroll the quiet windy beach, Spain visible across the water.
Leaving Tangier we experience our first Moroccan train on the way to the city of Fes. The holiday is still happening so again Tangier and the train station is quiet. The other extreme will happen when the holiday ends and people return to where they live. Maybe we wont be travelling that day!
Monday, 8 December 2008
The Calm Before the Storm
Sevilla is a relaxing place. Even when getting lost amongst the narrow maze of streets in the city's Santa Cruz neighbourhood. Sevilla generates this calmness through a few factors I suspect. The style and bright colours of the buildings. The relatively traffic free streets lined with orange trees. The pleasant temperature, not hot, but warm enough to stroll without freezing and to be able to sit outside. There are plenty of sights to see, but there is no rush! Our hostel complimented this greatly with an excellent location within easy walking distance of everything we wanted. The location, great kitchen and roof terrace allowed us to return for relaxed and cheap lunches between forays.
Sevilla knows how to do entertainment too of course and a popular form of that here is Flamenco. Being budget travellers we wanted to see some Flamenco for a good price. The La Carboneria bar in town obliges nicely by providing some for free. It's a pretty basic place, kind of like a big spanish shed with a bar and a small stage. By performance time at 11pm the place was rammed. In some ways it felt quite touristy, but when the band spoke it was only in spanish. The band was four members and commanded a presence. Three men, one on guitar, one on flute and one singer on percussion using hands and feet only. No microphones, just an intimate performance. The band started slowly and built steadily until the moment the woman rose and began the dance. A series of short bursts. We're no experts, but this seemed like raw Flamenco to us and made for a compeling show. We didn't even have a great view.
Another of Sevilla's passions is bull fighting. It's out of season now so the question of whether we would go to a fight or not is irrelevant. We did decide to visit the ring, or Plaza de Toro, though. You can take a short tour which is delivered without any sense of controversy.
Another interesting site is the Real Alcazar, a royal palace for centuries and featuring the muslim/christian style known as Mudejar. Plenty of intricate ceramics and plaster work. The Plaza de Espana is a great place for a poke about. The central fountain is surrounded on one side by a tiered semi-circular building, the ground level decorated with tiled seating sections depicting the regions of Spain. We really liked Sevilla, even though we did get drizzled on one afternoon!
Spain has a reputation for mañana, but not so when it comes to public transport it seems. The trains in the country have all been top notch and on time. We've been using Interrail train passes for the last month with Sevilla being the last stop as they have now expired. They did get us here all the way from Bled in Slovenia though. Our last journey was by bus anyway. Very good also by the way, getting us down to a town called Tarifa in the very south of Spain and indeed Europe at the point where the Med and Atlantic meet. For Tarifa you need to think Spanish Newquay. It's popular for surfing, especially the wind and kite variety. We strolled the lovely beach and saw the kite surfers in action. However, watersport is not our reason for being here. Tomorrow we cross the water to our next port of call. Morocco.
Sevilla knows how to do entertainment too of course and a popular form of that here is Flamenco. Being budget travellers we wanted to see some Flamenco for a good price. The La Carboneria bar in town obliges nicely by providing some for free. It's a pretty basic place, kind of like a big spanish shed with a bar and a small stage. By performance time at 11pm the place was rammed. In some ways it felt quite touristy, but when the band spoke it was only in spanish. The band was four members and commanded a presence. Three men, one on guitar, one on flute and one singer on percussion using hands and feet only. No microphones, just an intimate performance. The band started slowly and built steadily until the moment the woman rose and began the dance. A series of short bursts. We're no experts, but this seemed like raw Flamenco to us and made for a compeling show. We didn't even have a great view.
Another of Sevilla's passions is bull fighting. It's out of season now so the question of whether we would go to a fight or not is irrelevant. We did decide to visit the ring, or Plaza de Toro, though. You can take a short tour which is delivered without any sense of controversy.
Another interesting site is the Real Alcazar, a royal palace for centuries and featuring the muslim/christian style known as Mudejar. Plenty of intricate ceramics and plaster work. The Plaza de Espana is a great place for a poke about. The central fountain is surrounded on one side by a tiered semi-circular building, the ground level decorated with tiled seating sections depicting the regions of Spain. We really liked Sevilla, even though we did get drizzled on one afternoon!
Spain has a reputation for mañana, but not so when it comes to public transport it seems. The trains in the country have all been top notch and on time. We've been using Interrail train passes for the last month with Sevilla being the last stop as they have now expired. They did get us here all the way from Bled in Slovenia though. Our last journey was by bus anyway. Very good also by the way, getting us down to a town called Tarifa in the very south of Spain and indeed Europe at the point where the Med and Atlantic meet. For Tarifa you need to think Spanish Newquay. It's popular for surfing, especially the wind and kite variety. We strolled the lovely beach and saw the kite surfers in action. However, watersport is not our reason for being here. Tomorrow we cross the water to our next port of call. Morocco.
Friday, 5 December 2008
Holy Toledo Batman!
Did Robin ever exclaim so, during the 60s incarnation of the caped crusader? If if did then if would be right. The once capital of Spain the city is awash with churches, monastries and the obligatory huge cathedral.
Arriving here yesterday by train on a day trip from Madrid we were greeted by a grand station house built in a Moorish style back in the early 20th century (photos of the construction adorn the walls). Indeed Toledo is a mix of styles from it's various historical rulers. When we arrived in the old center we both thought Tuscan Hill town. The colours, roof tiles and mash of narrow streets. The difference being the Moorish styles. Now, if you owned a medievil castle and wanted to do some interior design then you may wish to come to Toledo! As, for some strange reason, almost every second shop sells blades of some description. From pocket knives to massive swords, not to mention suits of armour! Not sure of the significance relating to Toledo.
The town had that low season lull about it and had a small oddness too that is impossible to describe here, but it made for a decent day out.
Arriving here yesterday by train on a day trip from Madrid we were greeted by a grand station house built in a Moorish style back in the early 20th century (photos of the construction adorn the walls). Indeed Toledo is a mix of styles from it's various historical rulers. When we arrived in the old center we both thought Tuscan Hill town. The colours, roof tiles and mash of narrow streets. The difference being the Moorish styles. Now, if you owned a medievil castle and wanted to do some interior design then you may wish to come to Toledo! As, for some strange reason, almost every second shop sells blades of some description. From pocket knives to massive swords, not to mention suits of armour! Not sure of the significance relating to Toledo.
The town had that low season lull about it and had a small oddness too that is impossible to describe here, but it made for a decent day out.
Madrid
We just spent our last night in Madrid and are on the fast train to Seville. Madrid station works a bit more like an airport, where your bags are scanned and your ticket checked before you reach the platform (due to the bombing a few years back I assume). It's less hassle than an airport though. It even has it's own jungle, a sight we were greeted with on our arrival 4 days ago.
So how to describe Madrid? It's one of the few big european cities we've seen since Rome not to have a tram system, but it does have a metro and doesn't have the craziness of Rome due to the lack of scooters I suspect. That's not to say that Madrid isn't lively or vibrant, because it's both. Clean and modern too combined with some old character. The use of ceramic tiles for street signs is a nice touch and the use of tiles continues on many buildings especially the many Tapas bars in the city. Tiles take the form of scenes or intricate paterns in a nod to the country's Moorish past. There isn't the big hitting well known monument to tell you about, but there is a free walking tour by those nice folks at neweurope, which we did to find out a little more about the city. A fun and informative tour later we were a bit more clued on Madrid and Spain, if a little cold. One interesting point is that Madrid is in the very center of Spain. It does look like it on a map and they have a plaque on the street to mark kilometer zero!
The day after we visited the Palacio Real, the official residence of the King although if actually lives elsewhere. The bonus is that entry is free for EU residence on a wednesday. When we got there however it was closed for official ceremonies, which we appeared to have mostly missed also. Then it started to rain. So we went for lunch. After lunch we went back and it was open again. It's a huge 18th century building with over 2800 rooms with a few available to view. Expectantly ornate each room is seriously busy. No wonder the King doesn't live here as you'd most likely go cross-eyed!! The Cathedral de la Almudena next to the palace was started in one style and after a serious dose of mañana, finished in another!
I mentioned the Tapas bars before and in Madrid there are simply hundreds. We were staying in the city centre in a nice guest house with dozens of places practically on the doorstep. Over our 4 nights here we tried a few recommended places. The Tapas in Barcelona is more like what we've seen at home, small portions served in ceramic dishes. Here, like the bars, it's more rustic. Not necessarily cheaper, but better value. All the places we tried were good and lively, apart from one, which was also the most expensive(and not as busy!). There isn't a smoking ban here (yet?) which is the one downside of these otherwise great bars. Overall Madrid gets the nod of approval.
So how to describe Madrid? It's one of the few big european cities we've seen since Rome not to have a tram system, but it does have a metro and doesn't have the craziness of Rome due to the lack of scooters I suspect. That's not to say that Madrid isn't lively or vibrant, because it's both. Clean and modern too combined with some old character. The use of ceramic tiles for street signs is a nice touch and the use of tiles continues on many buildings especially the many Tapas bars in the city. Tiles take the form of scenes or intricate paterns in a nod to the country's Moorish past. There isn't the big hitting well known monument to tell you about, but there is a free walking tour by those nice folks at neweurope, which we did to find out a little more about the city. A fun and informative tour later we were a bit more clued on Madrid and Spain, if a little cold. One interesting point is that Madrid is in the very center of Spain. It does look like it on a map and they have a plaque on the street to mark kilometer zero!
The day after we visited the Palacio Real, the official residence of the King although if actually lives elsewhere. The bonus is that entry is free for EU residence on a wednesday. When we got there however it was closed for official ceremonies, which we appeared to have mostly missed also. Then it started to rain. So we went for lunch. After lunch we went back and it was open again. It's a huge 18th century building with over 2800 rooms with a few available to view. Expectantly ornate each room is seriously busy. No wonder the King doesn't live here as you'd most likely go cross-eyed!! The Cathedral de la Almudena next to the palace was started in one style and after a serious dose of mañana, finished in another!
I mentioned the Tapas bars before and in Madrid there are simply hundreds. We were staying in the city centre in a nice guest house with dozens of places practically on the doorstep. Over our 4 nights here we tried a few recommended places. The Tapas in Barcelona is more like what we've seen at home, small portions served in ceramic dishes. Here, like the bars, it's more rustic. Not necessarily cheaper, but better value. All the places we tried were good and lively, apart from one, which was also the most expensive(and not as busy!). There isn't a smoking ban here (yet?) which is the one downside of these otherwise great bars. Overall Madrid gets the nod of approval.
Monday, 1 December 2008
Barcelona
As I commented on the last post the Spanish train got us to Barcelona on time. This was 9:45pm and the Barcelona night life just seemed to be getting started, with people filling the streets of the La Ribera neighbourhood. So we checked in and went out to investigate. We found a bar. Everyone seemed to be drinking cocktails so we joined in for a couple of Mojitos. Technically Cuban I know, but very good here. In fact this must be the place to have them in Barcelona as they were flying over the bar with one guy's job behind it simply to make Mojitos. All night!! It got pretty busy soon after we arrived. Lucky to get seats at the bar then. Well, except the couple who stood right next to us having the most noisy pash (one for the Aussies!) ever!! They needed a room.
We've been to Barcelona before for a three day break, but unfortunately it rained solid for the first two. This will be the only city that wont be new to us on this trip. We came to Barcelona because it was a convenient stop in Spain from Geneva and to hopefully have one more nice day to wonder round. Luckily yesterday did have fine weather. Not what you would call hot, but a big change from the last couple of weeks. The locals were all wrapped up in big jackets and scarves though. We've both been fighting off colds for the last week and yesterday the cold finally won. So not feeling so good we wandered a bit anyway. Through the narrow old streets of the Barri Gotic and with the crowds on wide Las Ramblas.
Barcelona is home to a series of works of the Modernista movement and it's most famous patron Antoni Gaudi. His most famous creation is La Sagrada Familia the massive church started in 1882 and still under construction! The style I can best describe as organic, all flowing lines with no hard edges, but plenty of detail. It's certainly interesting and we would say our favorite example is Parc Guell which we explored on our previous visit.
Last night we went to a Tapas bar. It's was our second choice as a bar we knew from before was closed. Probably a Sunday thing that we keep getting caught out on in Europe. These places are great. The Tapa are laid out on the bar and you simply help yourself and keep the cocktail stick for payment when you are done. Means you can eat as little or as much as you want. Dangerous too as they soon add up! The Tapa here are all served on slices of baguette and the toppings range from egg mayo to deep fried prawn. Sometimes the fresh hot ones are offered around the bar by the staff. We like Barcelona. It's got a good buzz, there is plenty to see and the restaurants and bars are cool.
We are now on a train to Madrid and what a nice train it is too. Spanking new and super fast reaching speeds of up to 301km/h! The carriage info panel told us. It's a smooth ride also and there is even a movie. That's in spanish however, but strangely is a psycho-thriller/horror!
We've been to Barcelona before for a three day break, but unfortunately it rained solid for the first two. This will be the only city that wont be new to us on this trip. We came to Barcelona because it was a convenient stop in Spain from Geneva and to hopefully have one more nice day to wonder round. Luckily yesterday did have fine weather. Not what you would call hot, but a big change from the last couple of weeks. The locals were all wrapped up in big jackets and scarves though. We've both been fighting off colds for the last week and yesterday the cold finally won. So not feeling so good we wandered a bit anyway. Through the narrow old streets of the Barri Gotic and with the crowds on wide Las Ramblas.
Barcelona is home to a series of works of the Modernista movement and it's most famous patron Antoni Gaudi. His most famous creation is La Sagrada Familia the massive church started in 1882 and still under construction! The style I can best describe as organic, all flowing lines with no hard edges, but plenty of detail. It's certainly interesting and we would say our favorite example is Parc Guell which we explored on our previous visit.
Last night we went to a Tapas bar. It's was our second choice as a bar we knew from before was closed. Probably a Sunday thing that we keep getting caught out on in Europe. These places are great. The Tapa are laid out on the bar and you simply help yourself and keep the cocktail stick for payment when you are done. Means you can eat as little or as much as you want. Dangerous too as they soon add up! The Tapa here are all served on slices of baguette and the toppings range from egg mayo to deep fried prawn. Sometimes the fresh hot ones are offered around the bar by the staff. We like Barcelona. It's got a good buzz, there is plenty to see and the restaurants and bars are cool.
We are now on a train to Madrid and what a nice train it is too. Spanking new and super fast reaching speeds of up to 301km/h! The carriage info panel told us. It's a smooth ride also and there is even a movie. That's in spanish however, but strangely is a psycho-thriller/horror!
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