Sunday, 30 November 2008
Saturday, 29 November 2008
French Trains
Our journey through France involves two trains with a change in Montpellier. The first leg by TVG the supposedly superfast train that crawled the last part at a speed irritatingly close to snails pace! We only just made the connection and that's only because I saw Barcelona on the side of the adjacent train as we pulled in, the information board reading Bordeaux!! On this train the stink coming from the carriage toilet is eye-wateringly rancid.
Unlucky or a good reason to avoid French trains? Share your experiences!
One more thing, and this is does not just apply to France or trains. Why, when it's cold outside do the inside places feel the need to crank up the temperature to max? Is there a James Bond movie style gauge that goes all the way up to 'inferno'? Drill a screw in at 'comfortable' people. If someone is mildly cold they can put one of their jumpers back on! Rant over, thanks for listening :-)
Unlucky or a good reason to avoid French trains? Share your experiences!
One more thing, and this is does not just apply to France or trains. Why, when it's cold outside do the inside places feel the need to crank up the temperature to max? Is there a James Bond movie style gauge that goes all the way up to 'inferno'? Drill a screw in at 'comfortable' people. If someone is mildly cold they can put one of their jumpers back on! Rant over, thanks for listening :-)
Sortie Switzerland
Our last couple of nights in Switzerland have been spent in Geneva. Although it may as well be France, (which you could probably hit with a decent spit!) as French is the written and spoken language here for sure.
Located at the end of it's namesake lake and enclosed on three sides by France it's about as far west as you can go in Switzerland and is our staging point for our next destination: Barcelona. Yes, that's in Spain. So what about that big European country called France that's in the way? Well, we are sort of there now all be it on a train! We have both been to France before (no, not all of it!) and we couldn't think of anywhere we wanted to see on the way. Time is marching on anyway.
Before Spain though there was Geneva, famous for it's convention and home to many an international organisation such as the UN and the International Committee of the Red Cross/Red Crescent. The later having a good museum about the history and work of the organisation. The museum avoids the dull 'bunch of stuff in a glass cabinet' museum standard with some well thought out displays including some videos. It's more akin to an exhibition really and worth a visit if you happen to be in Geneva for a bit. Geneva also has this huge water jet in the lake that is apparently well known. We'd never heard of it, but discovery is part of the point of travelling!
Now, as I said before Switzerland is quite expensive, but there is some respite in Geneva in the from of a free transit card for visitors handed out by your hotel etc. Valid for the city's public transport (bus, tram, boat) even on the departure day. Nice one Geneva. No-one asked to see it by the way!!
Located at the end of it's namesake lake and enclosed on three sides by France it's about as far west as you can go in Switzerland and is our staging point for our next destination: Barcelona. Yes, that's in Spain. So what about that big European country called France that's in the way? Well, we are sort of there now all be it on a train! We have both been to France before (no, not all of it!) and we couldn't think of anywhere we wanted to see on the way. Time is marching on anyway.
Before Spain though there was Geneva, famous for it's convention and home to many an international organisation such as the UN and the International Committee of the Red Cross/Red Crescent. The later having a good museum about the history and work of the organisation. The museum avoids the dull 'bunch of stuff in a glass cabinet' museum standard with some well thought out displays including some videos. It's more akin to an exhibition really and worth a visit if you happen to be in Geneva for a bit. Geneva also has this huge water jet in the lake that is apparently well known. We'd never heard of it, but discovery is part of the point of travelling!
Now, as I said before Switzerland is quite expensive, but there is some respite in Geneva in the from of a free transit card for visitors handed out by your hotel etc. Valid for the city's public transport (bus, tram, boat) even on the departure day. Nice one Geneva. No-one asked to see it by the way!!
Weather Permitting
The grey weather followed us to Interlaken or we caught up with it again. A bit disappointing as one of the major attractions of being here was to see the mountain peaks. South of Interlaken is the mountainous region of the Bernese Oberland including the Eiger, famous for it's north face. Two ways for us to get in about this region were: to take the train to Jungfraujoch (the highest train station in Europe) or the Schilthorn via cablecar. Only it was one option as the Schilthorn was closed for "refreshment". Now, good weather is essential so all we could do was get up early and see what was what. Helpfully there are cameras up in the mountains beaming live footage to, what appears to be all, the TVs in Interlaken.
Rising early we ventured outside to see a clearing sky. Buoyed we headed for the station checking out Interlaken TV on the way. It was clear clear clear! Tickets purchased we were on our way. The train powered away from Interlaken and up toward the peaks. At some point during the way up the driver drove the train through the wardrobe! Deep fresh pure snow covering the landscape like liquid marshmallow, fir trees drooping under the weight with white mountain peaks in the background. The ride to the Top of Europe train station takes about two hours with everyone hanging out the windows taking pics the whole way, me included, apart from the bit where the track tunnels through the Eiger before arrival at Jungfraujoch. The station is at 3454m with a lift ride to a viewing area at 3571m. The view is, almost literally, a million dollars and gets better when you step outside. One direction between jagged peaks a pure white valley stretches off, only a few crevaces giving away the blue ice of the glacier below. The other way, a view over lower peaks back down towards Interlaken, now visible itself. Staying out for long wasn't possible though as it was freezing. Properly! With heat sapping gusts of wind. We came prepared, layered up, but still! Down again at station level you can get out on to the snow for more amazing views. Even more amazing though, Louise pointed out, was one young lady's decision to wear suede high heeled boots. Now, I know we weren't glacier hiking, but the sight of a young lady gripping the rope barrier just to walk was quite amusing!! We stayed up there until the last train down left at 16:30 the sunlight only just remaining on the highest peaks. What a place to spend a day.
Wish I could say the same about the hostel in Interlaken. Good pub, crap hostel. The Happy Inn. Happy to be leavin' more like! Which is what we did the next day. Would be nice to spend a bit longer in such a beautiful part of the world, but it appears to be a between season shutdown, we're not properly equipped for winter walking on this trip and it's pretty expensive in Switzerland (not helped by a rubbish exchange rate). One more thing Switzerland, where's the smoking ban??
Rising early we ventured outside to see a clearing sky. Buoyed we headed for the station checking out Interlaken TV on the way. It was clear clear clear! Tickets purchased we were on our way. The train powered away from Interlaken and up toward the peaks. At some point during the way up the driver drove the train through the wardrobe! Deep fresh pure snow covering the landscape like liquid marshmallow, fir trees drooping under the weight with white mountain peaks in the background. The ride to the Top of Europe train station takes about two hours with everyone hanging out the windows taking pics the whole way, me included, apart from the bit where the track tunnels through the Eiger before arrival at Jungfraujoch. The station is at 3454m with a lift ride to a viewing area at 3571m. The view is, almost literally, a million dollars and gets better when you step outside. One direction between jagged peaks a pure white valley stretches off, only a few crevaces giving away the blue ice of the glacier below. The other way, a view over lower peaks back down towards Interlaken, now visible itself. Staying out for long wasn't possible though as it was freezing. Properly! With heat sapping gusts of wind. We came prepared, layered up, but still! Down again at station level you can get out on to the snow for more amazing views. Even more amazing though, Louise pointed out, was one young lady's decision to wear suede high heeled boots. Now, I know we weren't glacier hiking, but the sight of a young lady gripping the rope barrier just to walk was quite amusing!! We stayed up there until the last train down left at 16:30 the sunlight only just remaining on the highest peaks. What a place to spend a day.
Wish I could say the same about the hostel in Interlaken. Good pub, crap hostel. The Happy Inn. Happy to be leavin' more like! Which is what we did the next day. Would be nice to spend a bit longer in such a beautiful part of the world, but it appears to be a between season shutdown, we're not properly equipped for winter walking on this trip and it's pretty expensive in Switzerland (not helped by a rubbish exchange rate). One more thing Switzerland, where's the smoking ban??
Tuesday, 25 November 2008
All the leaves are brown and the sky is grey.
We went for a walk on a rainy day :-( Lucerne should be amazing, but the weather was against us on this one. It happens. The hostel was nice though and we had the luxury of a dorm room to ourselves. So, well rested we are off to Interlaken. Beautiful train journey, just need the cloud to lift.
Monday, 24 November 2008
Walking in a winter wonderland
Just done three nights, two days in Munich. Man it was cold! It snowed on the first day right in the middle of our walking tour. Yes, a walking tour! But, with those nice folks from New Europe. Good stuff. Saw the town, learned some stuff. Any history of a German city inevitably features one or both world wars and Munich is no exception. It's where the Nazis started and was heavily bombed during the subsequent war. The rebuilt city is quite nice though. Going way back to the beginning Munich was founded by Monks. München means city of Monks. And what do monks like to do? That's right, make beer! Something Munich is famous for. Mostly for Oktoberfest which dates back to 1810, but is now mostly dominated by Australians! Apparently!! Munich has many beer halls and being very cold make for great site seeing options!
Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589 as the royal beer drinking establishment, is probably the most well known although our favourite was Augustiner Keller with it's long spiral staircase leading down to the vaulted ceilinged hall. Beer halls sound a bit rough, but they're not really. You can get nice food and you'll see families during the day. Good atmosphere too.
One suprising stat about Munich is that it contains the richest street in Europe! Maximillian Street, where, apparently, you can get a Venice busting 13 euro capuccino!!
It snowed overnight making the view from the train window today particularly nice. This train is taking us to Switzerland and Zurich where we'll get on another train to Lucerne.
Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589 as the royal beer drinking establishment, is probably the most well known although our favourite was Augustiner Keller with it's long spiral staircase leading down to the vaulted ceilinged hall. Beer halls sound a bit rough, but they're not really. You can get nice food and you'll see families during the day. Good atmosphere too.
One suprising stat about Munich is that it contains the richest street in Europe! Maximillian Street, where, apparently, you can get a Venice busting 13 euro capuccino!!
It snowed overnight making the view from the train window today particularly nice. This train is taking us to Switzerland and Zurich where we'll get on another train to Lucerne.
Friday, 21 November 2008
Getting Down in Dresden
We're on the train again heading for Munich. It's snowing outside. In between now and leaving Berlin though we were in Dresden.
The one thing I knew about Dresden was it's destruction during WW2 by Allied bombing raids and it's post war reconstruction. After a day and a half in Dresden that's still all I know about Dresden!! We may have learned more on a walking tour, but the guide was a no show. On returning to the tourist office to enquire we found out that we had been told to wait in the wrong place and, between the tourist office and tour company, refused to refund our money in one of the most pig-headed displays of ignorant customer service I think we've seen. It wasn't a huge amount, but the principle of actually getting what you pay for would be nice. So if you're ever in Dresden don't book a tour with Stadtrundfahrt Dresden. In fact just spend more time in Berlin. I wish we had.
This clouds silver lining was that at what would have been about halfway through the tour it hammered it down with rain. Oh, and we could go to the VW factory instead. It was an interesting and pleasant hour or so with pleasant staff too!!
We stayed in the Neustadt neighbourhood. Cool, arty and grungey including our hostel. For the room think tiered platforms rather than bunks. A little too hip for us 'old' backpackers maybe, it would have been ace if you were 8 on a sleepover!! Poorly lit too. Does that make me sound like your dad?!
The one thing I knew about Dresden was it's destruction during WW2 by Allied bombing raids and it's post war reconstruction. After a day and a half in Dresden that's still all I know about Dresden!! We may have learned more on a walking tour, but the guide was a no show. On returning to the tourist office to enquire we found out that we had been told to wait in the wrong place and, between the tourist office and tour company, refused to refund our money in one of the most pig-headed displays of ignorant customer service I think we've seen. It wasn't a huge amount, but the principle of actually getting what you pay for would be nice. So if you're ever in Dresden don't book a tour with Stadtrundfahrt Dresden. In fact just spend more time in Berlin. I wish we had.
This clouds silver lining was that at what would have been about halfway through the tour it hammered it down with rain. Oh, and we could go to the VW factory instead. It was an interesting and pleasant hour or so with pleasant staff too!!
We stayed in the Neustadt neighbourhood. Cool, arty and grungey including our hostel. For the room think tiered platforms rather than bunks. A little too hip for us 'old' backpackers maybe, it would have been ace if you were 8 on a sleepover!! Poorly lit too. Does that make me sound like your dad?!
Thursday, 20 November 2008
Ich bin ein Berliner
We spent 4 nights and three full days in Berlin leaving yesterday. I've been trying to decide what to write about the city, but got a case of Bloggers Block! So, I'm going to list in no particular order some of the things we liked about Berlin and see where that takes us.
Free walking tours:
Well tips based. Run by a company called NewBerlin. We did 2 tours. The first was a general guide to the important sites around Berlin (Brandenburg Gate, checkpoint Charlie etc) with the history. The second was an Alternative Berlin tour taking in a different side of the city and the counter culture that has arisen since 'The Wall' came down. We like walking tours and much of our other likes here were covered. Check out www.neweuropetours.eu for more info on tours across Europe including Edinburgh and London.
The Reichstag:
Built as the seat of government it was burned down in 1933. An event that Hitler used to further his cause. He never used it and it was not rebuilt until the 60s. The crowning glory is the excellent 1990 added glass and steel dome that sits centrally above the debating chamber. It's free to enter the dome and walk the spiral walkway to the top for great views across the city. It's the interaction with the building that makes the experience. Something the Scottish parlament building could have done with.
Holocaust Memorial and Book Burning Memorial:
Ok, so liked maybe isn't quite correct when it comes to such emotive subjects, but it's the delivery that's the winner here. Not some typical monument, but more akin to thought provoking installation artworks. Different and clever and more importantly memorable.
East side gallery:
At 1.3km it's the longest surviving section of the Berlin wall. Decorated by artists from all over the world in 1990 to become the longest open air art gallery in the world. It is now a bit dilapidated and many of the works are now sadly partly obscured by idiots writing "I was ere" type scrawls over them. Apparently the real artists are soon to return and redo them.
Public Transport:
Possibly the only german stereo type to exist in Berlin is an excellent, efficient and frequent transport system. S-Bahn, U-Bahn, trams and loads of multilingual info available.
Potsdamer Platz:
I wouldn't say Berlin is a pretty city or grand like, say, Vienna. Neither is it ugly and it is clean and spacious. A product of it's past from war time destruction to GDR neglect and post-reunion reconstruction there are some modern gems that don't seem out of place here. Like the roof of the Sony Centre at Potsdamer Platz and the already mentioned Reichstag dome.
Ampleman:
Berlin definitely has a fun and artistic side and Ampleman shows this off. He's the fun red or green pedestrian crossing signal guy by the way!
Hitler's War Bunker:
Well more like Not Hitler War Bunker as it's not actually anything. Just a car park with a small patch of grass that the local residents take their dogs to wee and poo on!!
So in essence Berlin is cool. It's a city that remembers and is shaped by it's history. It's a city that is still rebuilding and moving forward. An addictive city that left us wanting more and with the sense that if we return it's going to be a little different with something new to discover. So simply put, get your butt to Berlin.
Free walking tours:
Well tips based. Run by a company called NewBerlin. We did 2 tours. The first was a general guide to the important sites around Berlin (Brandenburg Gate, checkpoint Charlie etc) with the history. The second was an Alternative Berlin tour taking in a different side of the city and the counter culture that has arisen since 'The Wall' came down. We like walking tours and much of our other likes here were covered. Check out www.neweuropetours.eu for more info on tours across Europe including Edinburgh and London.
The Reichstag:
Built as the seat of government it was burned down in 1933. An event that Hitler used to further his cause. He never used it and it was not rebuilt until the 60s. The crowning glory is the excellent 1990 added glass and steel dome that sits centrally above the debating chamber. It's free to enter the dome and walk the spiral walkway to the top for great views across the city. It's the interaction with the building that makes the experience. Something the Scottish parlament building could have done with.
Holocaust Memorial and Book Burning Memorial:
Ok, so liked maybe isn't quite correct when it comes to such emotive subjects, but it's the delivery that's the winner here. Not some typical monument, but more akin to thought provoking installation artworks. Different and clever and more importantly memorable.
East side gallery:
At 1.3km it's the longest surviving section of the Berlin wall. Decorated by artists from all over the world in 1990 to become the longest open air art gallery in the world. It is now a bit dilapidated and many of the works are now sadly partly obscured by idiots writing "I was ere" type scrawls over them. Apparently the real artists are soon to return and redo them.
Public Transport:
Possibly the only german stereo type to exist in Berlin is an excellent, efficient and frequent transport system. S-Bahn, U-Bahn, trams and loads of multilingual info available.
Potsdamer Platz:
I wouldn't say Berlin is a pretty city or grand like, say, Vienna. Neither is it ugly and it is clean and spacious. A product of it's past from war time destruction to GDR neglect and post-reunion reconstruction there are some modern gems that don't seem out of place here. Like the roof of the Sony Centre at Potsdamer Platz and the already mentioned Reichstag dome.
Ampleman:
Berlin definitely has a fun and artistic side and Ampleman shows this off. He's the fun red or green pedestrian crossing signal guy by the way!
Hitler's War Bunker:
Well more like Not Hitler War Bunker as it's not actually anything. Just a car park with a small patch of grass that the local residents take their dogs to wee and poo on!!
So in essence Berlin is cool. It's a city that remembers and is shaped by it's history. It's a city that is still rebuilding and moving forward. An addictive city that left us wanting more and with the sense that if we return it's going to be a little different with something new to discover. So simply put, get your butt to Berlin.
Saturday, 15 November 2008
Poland
It's amazing we can go to a country called Poland at all. Since from 1795 until the end of WW1 the country was no more, divided up between Russia, Prussia and Austria. WW2 saw the country used as a battleground by the Soviets and Nazis after which the Soviets installed a communist government until independence came in 1990.
We arrived in the Polish city of Krakow not knowing what to expect. After Poland joined the European Union in 2004 many Poles left to find work across Europe. Now the tide is turning, Poles are going home and if Krakow is anything to go by I'd go home too!
The city is instantly likable with a youthful and vibrant feel (in part due to a large student population supporting a large pub and club scene), but at the same time an historic place, the two appearing to sit happily together. Once the royal capital of Poland and the seat of Medievil kings Krakow enjoys it's myths and legends, playfully embodied by the statue of it's Dragon mascot which still breaths fire today!!
We did a great walking tour pitched on the basis that it's free, but if you like it then tips would be nice. It was good and although long not dull. We were just wandering anyway. The tour took in the old town featuring the largest medievil square in Europe. Spectacular Wawel (pro. Vavel) castle, the home and burial place of Polish kings. The one time Jewish neighbourhood of Kazimerz until Nazis occupation in WW2. During the communist era the area was made a home for societies less desirable characters, but has recently improved dramaticaly and is now the place to sample Zapiekanki. Polish fast food apparently! The easiest way to describe it is a Pizza Baguette. It's a halved french bread with a base 'topping' of mushrooms and cheese and then what else you would like. Good and filling. I had to leave the tour then as I was off to visit a salt mine, but Lou continued on the see the Jewish ghetto (where the Kazimerz Jews where relocated by the Nazis before concentration camps) and Schindler's factory as portrayed in Spielburg's film Schindler's List.
The Wieliczka salt mine I visited was no ordinary salt mine. With origins hundreds of years ago it is where miners carved statues and even even whole chapels into the rock salt deep underground. It's a fascinating place with impressive skill shown by these amateur sculptors.
If you think about it human history is littered with examples of pure brutality directed at other peoples. However it was not too far from Krakow at a place called Oswiecim (pro. Osh-fyen-cheem) that this brutality became infamous, industrial. A place where people became nothing more than a commodity to be used and destroyed after it's usefulness had past. This was expected, required in fact. For it was here in 1940 that the Nazis turned an old Polish barracks into a concentration camp they called Auschwitz. A tour of the site (yesterday) including original buildings reveals the disturbing facts and highlights that whatever we knew before it was actually much worse. A second site was built at Birkenau, also called Auschwitz II, 3km away and it was here that the majority of murders took place. The size of this site reveals the scale of the camps operation, though much was destroyed by the retreating Nazis before the Soviet liberation of the camp. The sites here now stand as a museum and memorial.
We are leaving Krakow and Poland today. Krakow was another pleasant surprise. An enjoyable place to stay and rich in history, if not always uplifting, with a seemingly optimistic character. Oh yeah, and the Polish dumplings we had last night were very nice. Not sure about the wine though. I'll probably stick to beer in our next country too. Next stop... Berlin.
We arrived in the Polish city of Krakow not knowing what to expect. After Poland joined the European Union in 2004 many Poles left to find work across Europe. Now the tide is turning, Poles are going home and if Krakow is anything to go by I'd go home too!
The city is instantly likable with a youthful and vibrant feel (in part due to a large student population supporting a large pub and club scene), but at the same time an historic place, the two appearing to sit happily together. Once the royal capital of Poland and the seat of Medievil kings Krakow enjoys it's myths and legends, playfully embodied by the statue of it's Dragon mascot which still breaths fire today!!
We did a great walking tour pitched on the basis that it's free, but if you like it then tips would be nice. It was good and although long not dull. We were just wandering anyway. The tour took in the old town featuring the largest medievil square in Europe. Spectacular Wawel (pro. Vavel) castle, the home and burial place of Polish kings. The one time Jewish neighbourhood of Kazimerz until Nazis occupation in WW2. During the communist era the area was made a home for societies less desirable characters, but has recently improved dramaticaly and is now the place to sample Zapiekanki. Polish fast food apparently! The easiest way to describe it is a Pizza Baguette. It's a halved french bread with a base 'topping' of mushrooms and cheese and then what else you would like. Good and filling. I had to leave the tour then as I was off to visit a salt mine, but Lou continued on the see the Jewish ghetto (where the Kazimerz Jews where relocated by the Nazis before concentration camps) and Schindler's factory as portrayed in Spielburg's film Schindler's List.
The Wieliczka salt mine I visited was no ordinary salt mine. With origins hundreds of years ago it is where miners carved statues and even even whole chapels into the rock salt deep underground. It's a fascinating place with impressive skill shown by these amateur sculptors.
If you think about it human history is littered with examples of pure brutality directed at other peoples. However it was not too far from Krakow at a place called Oswiecim (pro. Osh-fyen-cheem) that this brutality became infamous, industrial. A place where people became nothing more than a commodity to be used and destroyed after it's usefulness had past. This was expected, required in fact. For it was here in 1940 that the Nazis turned an old Polish barracks into a concentration camp they called Auschwitz. A tour of the site (yesterday) including original buildings reveals the disturbing facts and highlights that whatever we knew before it was actually much worse. A second site was built at Birkenau, also called Auschwitz II, 3km away and it was here that the majority of murders took place. The size of this site reveals the scale of the camps operation, though much was destroyed by the retreating Nazis before the Soviet liberation of the camp. The sites here now stand as a museum and memorial.
We are leaving Krakow and Poland today. Krakow was another pleasant surprise. An enjoyable place to stay and rich in history, if not always uplifting, with a seemingly optimistic character. Oh yeah, and the Polish dumplings we had last night were very nice. Not sure about the wine though. I'll probably stick to beer in our next country too. Next stop... Berlin.
Wednesday, 12 November 2008
Ahh Vienna... Ahhnd Bratislava... Ahh Mr Bond
Picking up from where we left off we arrived in Bratislava 2 days ago to an overcast, slightly misty, but dry day. Two things were on the hit list. The old town, but first the old castle. Well the 1950's reconstruction since it totally burned down in 1811. Reconstruction was the theme here today also as most of the large site appeared to be fenced off and in scaffolding. The view from within the castle walls still stretched as far as the mist allowed however. Over the small old town to the encircling rows of communist block housing the two separated on one side by the river Danube featuring the New Bridge, itself featuring an observation deck looking like something from a 60s sci-fi film done in the communist style! If you can't picture that then google it or wait for the pics. Apparently it's a disco at night!!
From the castle we descended into the old town. A small, but nice collection of pastel facades, narrow streets and open squares. I think we missed the pavement cafe scene and therefore the potential buzz. We did find a place to have a local brew though. Looking for something cheap to eat and not go over the amount of Slovakian Crowns we took out the bank, we came across an interesting take away joint. "Kono Pizza". Pizza in a cone! Basically the pre-made pizza base cone is stuffed with the ingredients and in it's little holder 'travels' through the glass oven to be cooked. Never seen one of these before. wondering if we will again! Didn't taste to bad actually! Oh yeah, there are some funky bronze statues around the town of people in various poses including the happy 18th century ships officer leaning over a bench, at this time juxtaposed by the grumpy faced woman sitting in front! We left Bratislava mid afternoon feeling that our day trip was the right thing for us to do on this trip. Probably more of a summer destination.
Later that evening in Vienna we went to the local English speaking cinema to see the new James Bond. Not dubbed or subtitled apart from the few spanish bits although those subtitles were in german! Right at the start we got to say "We've been there". And on this trip too. The bit in Siena, Italy featured the main square Il Campo. The crazy horse race actually happens, but in the summer as part of the Palio.
Yesterday we spent the day wandering the streets of Vienna and frequenting grand cafes. Cafe Sperl for breakfast served good coffee and omlette in a grungy grand setting. Cafe Demel has the "Eduard Sacher Torte" a result, believe it or not, of a law suit from Cafe Sacher to the title "Original Sacher Torte" which Cafe Sacher won. Reputedly the same recipe although I have to say the Cafe Sacher has it in my opinion. Cafe Demel wins on setting and price though. Cafe Central was the grandest with a beautiful fin-de-siecle-design interior. Apparently Lenin, Trotsky and Freud frequented the place! A pre-dinner drink was had at Esterhäzykeller, a Heurige similar to the other day, but more tunnels than room. Busy too with a good atmosphere. Dinner was at Schnitzelwirt. A recommendation from Kety in Atrani that serves huge Wiener Schnitzels and lovely potato salad. We didn't finish ours either!! The remains are about to be eaten in a roll for lunch :-)
We liked Vienna. It has the culture and grandiose sights and buildings befitting a European capital and also life. A few places we have seen on the trip seem low key out of season. Not so Vienna and the buzz is soon to increase as people fill the large Christmas markets currently being assembled.
Our Schnitzel lunch is aboard a train making its way though the Czech Republic to Krakow in southern Poland.
From the castle we descended into the old town. A small, but nice collection of pastel facades, narrow streets and open squares. I think we missed the pavement cafe scene and therefore the potential buzz. We did find a place to have a local brew though. Looking for something cheap to eat and not go over the amount of Slovakian Crowns we took out the bank, we came across an interesting take away joint. "Kono Pizza". Pizza in a cone! Basically the pre-made pizza base cone is stuffed with the ingredients and in it's little holder 'travels' through the glass oven to be cooked. Never seen one of these before. wondering if we will again! Didn't taste to bad actually! Oh yeah, there are some funky bronze statues around the town of people in various poses including the happy 18th century ships officer leaning over a bench, at this time juxtaposed by the grumpy faced woman sitting in front! We left Bratislava mid afternoon feeling that our day trip was the right thing for us to do on this trip. Probably more of a summer destination.
Later that evening in Vienna we went to the local English speaking cinema to see the new James Bond. Not dubbed or subtitled apart from the few spanish bits although those subtitles were in german! Right at the start we got to say "We've been there". And on this trip too. The bit in Siena, Italy featured the main square Il Campo. The crazy horse race actually happens, but in the summer as part of the Palio.
Yesterday we spent the day wandering the streets of Vienna and frequenting grand cafes. Cafe Sperl for breakfast served good coffee and omlette in a grungy grand setting. Cafe Demel has the "Eduard Sacher Torte" a result, believe it or not, of a law suit from Cafe Sacher to the title "Original Sacher Torte" which Cafe Sacher won. Reputedly the same recipe although I have to say the Cafe Sacher has it in my opinion. Cafe Demel wins on setting and price though. Cafe Central was the grandest with a beautiful fin-de-siecle-design interior. Apparently Lenin, Trotsky and Freud frequented the place! A pre-dinner drink was had at Esterhäzykeller, a Heurige similar to the other day, but more tunnels than room. Busy too with a good atmosphere. Dinner was at Schnitzelwirt. A recommendation from Kety in Atrani that serves huge Wiener Schnitzels and lovely potato salad. We didn't finish ours either!! The remains are about to be eaten in a roll for lunch :-)
We liked Vienna. It has the culture and grandiose sights and buildings befitting a European capital and also life. A few places we have seen on the trip seem low key out of season. Not so Vienna and the buzz is soon to increase as people fill the large Christmas markets currently being assembled.
Our Schnitzel lunch is aboard a train making its way though the Czech Republic to Krakow in southern Poland.
Monday, 10 November 2008
Piece of Cake
So what do you do when you arrive in Vienna? Go for coffee and cake of course! But not just any old cake the old cake that is the Sacher Torte and served at the birthplace and home of the original Sacher Torte no less, the Cafe Sacher. The cafe is part of a fancy hotel so is itself quite an elegant establishment. Popular too given we had to queue, briefly, to get in. I had 'the' cake with a coffee and Lou had apfelstrudle with a glass of wine! Nice cake, timid coffee, nice strudle, nice wine and surprisingly good service even for us backpacker types. Oh yeah, posh place posh price. Got to be done though, probably!
Then it was from übergrand to underground for another Vienna-style hangout. The Heurige or wine tavern. Our chosen place was Zwölf Apostelkeller looking like a basement wine cellar with a vaulted brick ceiling and low light completed with wooden furniture where the wine is served by the quarter litre in glass mugs!
Today we are off on a day trip to Bratislava. It's the capital of Slovakia for non-euro capital experts and in case you're interested it and Vienna are the two closest capital cities in Europe. Which is why it makes sense for us to go there on a day trip. It's about an hour on the train.
Then it was from übergrand to underground for another Vienna-style hangout. The Heurige or wine tavern. Our chosen place was Zwölf Apostelkeller looking like a basement wine cellar with a vaulted brick ceiling and low light completed with wooden furniture where the wine is served by the quarter litre in glass mugs!
Today we are off on a day trip to Bratislava. It's the capital of Slovakia for non-euro capital experts and in case you're interested it and Vienna are the two closest capital cities in Europe. Which is why it makes sense for us to go there on a day trip. It's about an hour on the train.
Sunday, 9 November 2008
Salzburg
The train journey to Salzburg was yet another scenic affair. Jagged mountains, low clouds and the odd Walt Disney castle.
It was dark on arrival in Salzburg, but getting to the hostel (think uni' halls, but oddly full of Scouts!) was a breeze. It's definitely getting colder, but that's ok as our first sight, the Augustiner Brau beer hall, was warm! Entry was through large doors into a silent hallway where we picked up the signs and the noise descending to the food stall lined passage with a few large busy halls. Figuring beer halls and empty stomachs don't mix we scoffed a quick currywurst and chips before taking our seats for a couple of whatever the monks had been brewing these last few weeks, or centuries. Actually the place had a medievil look to it, the hall we were in like a banqueting room. Whether always intended for beer drinking (a traditional source of income for monks) or converted later like so many churches at home I don't know. It was a lively place either way. The thing about having 2 though is that means 2 litres of nice brew, served in ceramic jugs, which is plenty before a day of sightseeing!
The old town of Salzburg is mostly wedged between the ridge of the Monchsberg, dominated by the fortress (Festung Hohensalzburg), and the Salzach river. The 17th century buildings look almost too new in contrast to say an old Italian citys which have more 'lived in' looks. One thing that seemed out of place was the streets that were all tarmac where cobbles or stone paving slabs may be expected. It's famously picturesque however and the hills around provide plenty of viewpoints, if you're up for the steps! We trained in Italy!! Famous also for being the birthplace of Mozart, a fact you're never too far from in Salzburg. Although he moved to Vienna at 25, apparently! Oh yeah, there is something here to do with The Sound of Music, but we don't know much about that!
Anyway that was yesterday and today we follow in Mozart's footsteps as we travel to Vienna. Although I don't think he took the train like we are.
It was dark on arrival in Salzburg, but getting to the hostel (think uni' halls, but oddly full of Scouts!) was a breeze. It's definitely getting colder, but that's ok as our first sight, the Augustiner Brau beer hall, was warm! Entry was through large doors into a silent hallway where we picked up the signs and the noise descending to the food stall lined passage with a few large busy halls. Figuring beer halls and empty stomachs don't mix we scoffed a quick currywurst and chips before taking our seats for a couple of whatever the monks had been brewing these last few weeks, or centuries. Actually the place had a medievil look to it, the hall we were in like a banqueting room. Whether always intended for beer drinking (a traditional source of income for monks) or converted later like so many churches at home I don't know. It was a lively place either way. The thing about having 2 though is that means 2 litres of nice brew, served in ceramic jugs, which is plenty before a day of sightseeing!
The old town of Salzburg is mostly wedged between the ridge of the Monchsberg, dominated by the fortress (Festung Hohensalzburg), and the Salzach river. The 17th century buildings look almost too new in contrast to say an old Italian citys which have more 'lived in' looks. One thing that seemed out of place was the streets that were all tarmac where cobbles or stone paving slabs may be expected. It's famously picturesque however and the hills around provide plenty of viewpoints, if you're up for the steps! We trained in Italy!! Famous also for being the birthplace of Mozart, a fact you're never too far from in Salzburg. Although he moved to Vienna at 25, apparently! Oh yeah, there is something here to do with The Sound of Music, but we don't know much about that!
Anyway that was yesterday and today we follow in Mozart's footsteps as we travel to Vienna. Although I don't think he took the train like we are.
Friday, 7 November 2008
Bled
We arrived yesterday in the picture postcard village of Bled situated at 501m above sea level in the Julian Alps. We should have bought the postcard as it has been overcast and raining. It's still a beautiful place even having to settle for brooding low cloud rather than glorious sunshine. We were lucky really as the rain held off long enough for us to walk up to the castle, back down and around the lake with it's fairytale island church. We are here between seasons really. After summer and before winter where more options would be available and not just in bled, but all over Slovenia. Raining and cold in the evening it was just as well for the good (in value too) pub a short walk away and the (open!) Mexican place which was nice for a change. Fajitas for 2, yum.
It's been a likable if brief visit to Slovenia. Easy to get around with friendly multilingual people. Almost everyone spoke good english and I know it shouldn't be expected, but that does make some things much easier. Slovenia seems like it would be a great destination for outdoors types on water, ground or snow.
We decided that with the poor weather and poorer forecast we would only stay for one night in Bled. In a way it's a shame, but it's also November! So, we are currently sitting on a train somewhere in Austria. Destination Saltsburg.
It's been a likable if brief visit to Slovenia. Easy to get around with friendly multilingual people. Almost everyone spoke good english and I know it shouldn't be expected, but that does make some things much easier. Slovenia seems like it would be a great destination for outdoors types on water, ground or snow.
We decided that with the poor weather and poorer forecast we would only stay for one night in Bled. In a way it's a shame, but it's also November! So, we are currently sitting on a train somewhere in Austria. Destination Saltsburg.
Wednesday, 5 November 2008
Detained at our Pleasure.
Arriving in Ljubljana after a pretty journey from Zagreb yesterday we stepped off the train to our first "oh that's chilly" moment in Europe! It's not been too bad actually, just spoilt really, but it's definitely at the time to bury the shorts, sandals and sunnies.
We're staying in an excellent hostel, called Hostel Celica, that's been converted from a former prison! Our room is an old cell, but like 19 other rooms has been re-designed by various artists. Ours' has wooden cabin beds and a border of photographs from around Europe. It's a really cool place with a good vibe. Like a funky hotel rather than a backpackers.
Ljubljana (pronunced loo-blee-ana) as a capital city is small, but well formed. At least the center is with its cafe lined streets and riverside promenade overlooked by Ljubljanski Grad (castle). We did a good walking tour today to learn a little more about another city we knew next to nothing about. The town, as written, does have a youthful vibe in part due to the very large student population studying here at one of three universities. And before some of you start tutting and moaning about work shy lay abouts, not so. The city is clean and seems well ordered to boot. The only slight smell was at the huge fruit and veg market which wiffed a little like your halloween neep does now! As Slovenia is now part of the euro zone and uses the Euro it's not mega cheap, but neither is it mega expensive. Well worth a visit and not just to the capital, apparently Slovenia has plenty to offer on the outdoors front too. Something we may experience a little of tomorrow as we travel further north to Bled.
P.S. Neep: Scottish for turnip, often used as a lantern instead of a pumpkin at Halloween. Possibly due to availability or price!
We're staying in an excellent hostel, called Hostel Celica, that's been converted from a former prison! Our room is an old cell, but like 19 other rooms has been re-designed by various artists. Ours' has wooden cabin beds and a border of photographs from around Europe. It's a really cool place with a good vibe. Like a funky hotel rather than a backpackers.
Ljubljana (pronunced loo-blee-ana) as a capital city is small, but well formed. At least the center is with its cafe lined streets and riverside promenade overlooked by Ljubljanski Grad (castle). We did a good walking tour today to learn a little more about another city we knew next to nothing about. The town, as written, does have a youthful vibe in part due to the very large student population studying here at one of three universities. And before some of you start tutting and moaning about work shy lay abouts, not so. The city is clean and seems well ordered to boot. The only slight smell was at the huge fruit and veg market which wiffed a little like your halloween neep does now! As Slovenia is now part of the euro zone and uses the Euro it's not mega cheap, but neither is it mega expensive. Well worth a visit and not just to the capital, apparently Slovenia has plenty to offer on the outdoors front too. Something we may experience a little of tomorrow as we travel further north to Bled.
P.S. Neep: Scottish for turnip, often used as a lantern instead of a pumpkin at Halloween. Possibly due to availability or price!
Monday, 3 November 2008
Zeds to Zagreb
We made it to Zagreb on the night train. Lou had been reading about all the scams that happen on over night trains in east Europe so paranoia had set in about fake inspectors, being gassed in our compartment or Jaws smashing though the window!! Thankfully they didn't happen. The security seemed ok actually. The guard even padlocks the coach doors in the night! We also had the room (lockable) to ourselves all night which was great, not just from a security point of view, but also the space. It was tight and six people and the luggage would have been sardines!
We are only here in Zagreb for one day and are leaving for Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, tomorrow. We don't have much of an itinerary for Zagreb and have had just a quick poke around town which seems very pleasant.
We are only here in Zagreb for one day and are leaving for Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, tomorrow. We don't have much of an itinerary for Zagreb and have had just a quick poke around town which seems very pleasant.
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Meat and Potatoes
We've had an enjoyable three and a half days in Sarajevo which we seem to have spent eating and drinking. With a bit of strolling and the tour thrown in for good measure. It's not a foody mecca, but we've enjoyed the food here. It is basic as I said before although it's tasty, cheap and it's local food. We lunched on cevapi (cevapcici more appeallingly translated to Sarajevo barbeque), dined on potato Burek (with sauce) and drank Bosnian coffee at what became our 'locals'. It's a pretty town in a beautiful spot. It's been fascinating also, to be here and learn a little about a region we knew little about.
We are now on the night train to Zagreb in a six bed couchette (2 3 tier bunks) which we have to ourselves so far.
We are now on the night train to Zagreb in a six bed couchette (2 3 tier bunks) which we have to ourselves so far.
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