We like Sarajevo! Already. It's a town we knew only one thing about. If our history was better we would know that the incident that sparked WW1 happened here. The 1984 winter olympics too. Again it's a melting pot of styles from modern to Austro-Hungarian and Turkish, Mosques, churches and cathedrals. It's a place that seems at ease and is bright, relaxed and welcoming. We are staying at a nice hostel, our own room, in the old town where fine smells of barbequed food greets the stroller. We joined the locals in eating cevapcici for lunch. So much better here and also for the lack of chips! Those added to please the tourists possibly? I drank Bosnian coffee. Like a long turkish coffee served in a small copper jug with a cube of turkish delight. Louise even liked it and had one later!! That's right, Louise had a coffee!
We did an excellent tour today about the war and a tunnel that the besieged Bosnian army used to sneak food and arms into the city. The guide himself joined the Bosnian army in Sarajevo at16. The city has evidence of the fighting, but much reconstruction has been done and bits are ongoing, but show me an old european city without scaffolding.
Sarajevo is an inexpensive place to be. For tea we ate take away Burek (the local equivalent of a pie and the regions fast food, there ain't no MacDonalds here.) washed down with Sarajevsko Pivo and followed by turkish delight :-) We already extended our intended stay by a day and now plan to take the overnight train to Zagreb on sunday.
Thursday, 30 October 2008
We're not the only ones
Forgot to mention we met another couple doing the Bari to Dubrovnik ferry trip who had done the same thing as us. That is quit work to emigrate and take time out to travel in between. They were moving from Australia to Canada with Europe being a destination along the way. They are lugging all the stuff they didn't ship with them though!
Mostar
We travelled inland by bus to Mostar. A city that lies in a river valley surrounded by steep hills. It's very different from Dubrovnik, a mix of cultures and styles. Mosques dot the landscape. The old town complete with old Turkish houses an influence from the Ottoman empire. Souvenir shop sell Arabian style gifts. Some gifts are made from bullet casings which seems a little off given recent history. Unlike Dubrovnik the evidence of war is clear. Many buildings still stand ruined or derelict contrasting sharply against the new. The main tourist area is the old town where much has been restored including the main attraction the Stari Most. The slender bridge originally built in 1556, destroyed in the war and rebuilt in the same manner. In summer young men of the town take money from tourists to jump from the bridge into the emerald water of the river Neretva. Not sure what it is like in summer, but it had some flow about it now. Food here is similar to Dubrovnik, but even more basic if that's possible! It's cheaper still though. One of the local dishes is called Cevapcici, like burger mince in the shape of a croquette, which rather unappeallingly translates as meat fingers! You get a few of them served in a spongy bread with chips and a sort of cream cheese.
The was a strange atmosphere to Mostar that is difficult to place or describe. Maybe because it's been quiet, dark and overcast, not sure.
We felt one night was enough to see the bridge so we are now on the train heading to Sarajevo. It's a scenic journey through a river valley with autumn colours on display. It's a little like the west coast of Scotland, but that could be the clouds and rain!!
The was a strange atmosphere to Mostar that is difficult to place or describe. Maybe because it's been quiet, dark and overcast, not sure.
We felt one night was enough to see the bridge so we are now on the train heading to Sarajevo. It's a scenic journey through a river valley with autumn colours on display. It's a little like the west coast of Scotland, but that could be the clouds and rain!!
Wednesday, 29 October 2008
The nights are fair drawin' in!
Overnight on the ferry we changed countries and our watches. The clocks going back to signify the end of summertime. It's been cooler here and obviously darker earlier although still very warm in the sun.
We arrived in Dubrovnik early on sunday morning and walked the short way to our accomodation. We booked a guest house as it cheaper than two hostel dorm beds! So we had three great nights sleep in our own room. 11 hours on the first night actually. Not that hostels are too bad it's just that we had a chainsaw snorer in Naples.
One of the first things we noticed about Dubrovnik is how peaceful it is. Ok so it was a sunday morning when we arrived, but this continued throughout our time here. This doesn't mean boring by the way. The old town of Dubrovnik is enclosed by walls and walking them above the town was a picturesque and calm experience. Maybe it's just the opposite of Naples and the nuttiness of Bari or the low season here, but the serenity was nice. One of the few things that springs to mind about Croatia is the recent war. Dubrovnik was laid siege to and shelled during 1991 and 1992, but looking at the old town you wouldn't really know. The one give away is the abundance of new roofs. The repair work has been really good. We did a walking tour where the guide talks about the war and history behind it. He pointed out some of the few places you can see pock marks from shrapnel.
Yesterday we went for a dive. The dive center and equipment were very good. The dive was ok. Pretty much what people say about the med. Clear water but not much life. It was long too 66 mins! By the end we were both pretty cold. It was then the dive guide suggested we get in the jacuzzi to warm up. The dive center was connected to, but not part of a hotel. So we found ourselves doing something we didn't expect to happen on our travels: lounging in the jacuzzi of a 5 star hotel!! Man it was nice.
We liked Dubrovnik. The people were nice and it was pretty cheap. The couple who owned the guest house gave us coffee and some of their walnut moonshine. Better than you'd think! They also didn't speak any english and us no Croatian (obviously) so conversations were mostly hand signals. When they wanted to explain something they fired out words in combination of, I assume, Croatian, Italian, german and the odd word of english! We always managed to get the gist of each other though. The food here is pretty simple, but good value. It's all meat and chips! We even saw a pizza place listing ham as a topping on a vegetarian! The proper meat is good for us though after pizza and pasta in Italy.
This morning we boarded the bus to Mostar in Bosnia where we have just arrived.
We arrived in Dubrovnik early on sunday morning and walked the short way to our accomodation. We booked a guest house as it cheaper than two hostel dorm beds! So we had three great nights sleep in our own room. 11 hours on the first night actually. Not that hostels are too bad it's just that we had a chainsaw snorer in Naples.
One of the first things we noticed about Dubrovnik is how peaceful it is. Ok so it was a sunday morning when we arrived, but this continued throughout our time here. This doesn't mean boring by the way. The old town of Dubrovnik is enclosed by walls and walking them above the town was a picturesque and calm experience. Maybe it's just the opposite of Naples and the nuttiness of Bari or the low season here, but the serenity was nice. One of the few things that springs to mind about Croatia is the recent war. Dubrovnik was laid siege to and shelled during 1991 and 1992, but looking at the old town you wouldn't really know. The one give away is the abundance of new roofs. The repair work has been really good. We did a walking tour where the guide talks about the war and history behind it. He pointed out some of the few places you can see pock marks from shrapnel.
Yesterday we went for a dive. The dive center and equipment were very good. The dive was ok. Pretty much what people say about the med. Clear water but not much life. It was long too 66 mins! By the end we were both pretty cold. It was then the dive guide suggested we get in the jacuzzi to warm up. The dive center was connected to, but not part of a hotel. So we found ourselves doing something we didn't expect to happen on our travels: lounging in the jacuzzi of a 5 star hotel!! Man it was nice.
We liked Dubrovnik. The people were nice and it was pretty cheap. The couple who owned the guest house gave us coffee and some of their walnut moonshine. Better than you'd think! They also didn't speak any english and us no Croatian (obviously) so conversations were mostly hand signals. When they wanted to explain something they fired out words in combination of, I assume, Croatian, Italian, german and the odd word of english! We always managed to get the gist of each other though. The food here is pretty simple, but good value. It's all meat and chips! We even saw a pizza place listing ham as a topping on a vegetarian! The proper meat is good for us though after pizza and pasta in Italy.
This morning we boarded the bus to Mostar in Bosnia where we have just arrived.
Saturday, 25 October 2008
Egress Italy
We are on the ferry in true chaotic Italian style. We would expect nothing less!! So, we say goodbye to an enjoyable time in Italy. Here's to Croatia :-)
Naples?
We arrived back in Naples on thursday for a two night stay. Really it was just a case of being in a city to take card of a few chores. Our "admin day" was yesterday and used to do washing and back up photos to CD. There was not really anything specific we wanted to see in Naples so it was good for that. It was also convenient for trains to Bari.
I haven't written anything about Naples itself. This is because I wasn't sure how to get it across. So, what to say about Naples? The Rough Guide lists it as: 'filthy' - check. The streets are littered and strewn with cigarette butts, rubbish piles up in and around bins tucked into corners until cleared nightly. Louise saw 2 of the biggest rats at such a spot close to the hostel. The center has a grimy appearance generally; "large and overbearing" - for our experience of the city center certainly. It's busy and noisy; "crime infested" - thankfully we had no direct experience of this, but you feel wary on the street. I didn't carry anything in my pockets. Everyone talks of pick-pockets and seems to stay in at night; "something akin to an Arab bazaar" - indeed. The streets are lined with street stalls selling all manner of phony goods from knock off perfume to the ubiquitous imitation handbag. Covert and blatant offers of i-phones and watches common place. The guide book also claims that after a couple of days your likely to become a staunch defender of the place! Originally I was going to disagree with that claim, but the following accounts of our last day and a half effectively amounts to just that! Would I say you should come here on holiday? Probably not (unless you are into gritty street photography). There are other places you want to go to in Italy.
Famed home of the pizza Naples is also cheap. Pizza is cheap everywhere in Italy, but in Naples it is cheaper and better. So, just when you thought we couldn't eat anymore pizza 2 nights ago we went out to a joint recommended as one of the best in the city. Unassumingly placed on a narrow hectic street in the centro storico we entered Di Matteo and what seemed like the back room. A simple menu of awesome pizza cooked in a wood fired oven. Served over spilling a large pizza dish and our choice of maybe the cheapest positively drinkable bottle of restaurant wine you're likely to get... Anywhere! If fantastic cheap pizza is a result of the way Naples is them I'll defend it for that. Some of the biggest characters we met have been in Naples. The hostel staff were welcoming and helpful especially the energetic Lucca. The laundry owner who gave Louise good banter about the Scotts and the price of a Kilt! My new barber, Angelo! The haircut an admin day task. Angelo, a middle aged dude with no hair! Somehow this seemed very Naples! The open exchange at his colourful shop down the street from the hostel went something like this.
Me: "buon giorno, err inglese?"
Angelo: "No, Italiano?"
Me: "No!"
Switch to the international game signs for wash and cut! He writes the price I nod and he motions me to sit at. He then makes a call finishes his cigarette in time to receive his espresso of which he pours of a drop! We when sign our way through the cut. It.s actually a bit of fun, both of us enjoying the challenge of getting the message across with hands, expression and limited words. Luckily I don't require a complex 'do'! He holds up the clippers and luckily after three weeks in Italy I can count to 4!! Later on when passing the shop he waves at us. I have a hair dresser for the first time just that he's in Naples!
Naples isn't a tourist town to nearly the same league as Rome etc which is quite refreshing in a way. The street sellers although rife are not pushy at all unlike the flower sellers at the Trevi fountain for example. One other noticeable thing about Naples is that for all the dirt it doesn't smell?! Looks like it should and we've smell drain issues before on the trip in nicer looking towns.
We left Naples this afternoon for Bari and that ferry to Dubrovnik.
I haven't written anything about Naples itself. This is because I wasn't sure how to get it across. So, what to say about Naples? The Rough Guide lists it as: 'filthy' - check. The streets are littered and strewn with cigarette butts, rubbish piles up in and around bins tucked into corners until cleared nightly. Louise saw 2 of the biggest rats at such a spot close to the hostel. The center has a grimy appearance generally; "large and overbearing" - for our experience of the city center certainly. It's busy and noisy; "crime infested" - thankfully we had no direct experience of this, but you feel wary on the street. I didn't carry anything in my pockets. Everyone talks of pick-pockets and seems to stay in at night; "something akin to an Arab bazaar" - indeed. The streets are lined with street stalls selling all manner of phony goods from knock off perfume to the ubiquitous imitation handbag. Covert and blatant offers of i-phones and watches common place. The guide book also claims that after a couple of days your likely to become a staunch defender of the place! Originally I was going to disagree with that claim, but the following accounts of our last day and a half effectively amounts to just that! Would I say you should come here on holiday? Probably not (unless you are into gritty street photography). There are other places you want to go to in Italy.
Famed home of the pizza Naples is also cheap. Pizza is cheap everywhere in Italy, but in Naples it is cheaper and better. So, just when you thought we couldn't eat anymore pizza 2 nights ago we went out to a joint recommended as one of the best in the city. Unassumingly placed on a narrow hectic street in the centro storico we entered Di Matteo and what seemed like the back room. A simple menu of awesome pizza cooked in a wood fired oven. Served over spilling a large pizza dish and our choice of maybe the cheapest positively drinkable bottle of restaurant wine you're likely to get... Anywhere! If fantastic cheap pizza is a result of the way Naples is them I'll defend it for that. Some of the biggest characters we met have been in Naples. The hostel staff were welcoming and helpful especially the energetic Lucca. The laundry owner who gave Louise good banter about the Scotts and the price of a Kilt! My new barber, Angelo! The haircut an admin day task. Angelo, a middle aged dude with no hair! Somehow this seemed very Naples! The open exchange at his colourful shop down the street from the hostel went something like this.
Me: "buon giorno, err inglese?"
Angelo: "No, Italiano?"
Me: "No!"
Switch to the international game signs for wash and cut! He writes the price I nod and he motions me to sit at. He then makes a call finishes his cigarette in time to receive his espresso of which he pours of a drop! We when sign our way through the cut. It.s actually a bit of fun, both of us enjoying the challenge of getting the message across with hands, expression and limited words. Luckily I don't require a complex 'do'! He holds up the clippers and luckily after three weeks in Italy I can count to 4!! Later on when passing the shop he waves at us. I have a hair dresser for the first time just that he's in Naples!
Naples isn't a tourist town to nearly the same league as Rome etc which is quite refreshing in a way. The street sellers although rife are not pushy at all unlike the flower sellers at the Trevi fountain for example. One other noticeable thing about Naples is that for all the dirt it doesn't smell?! Looks like it should and we've smell drain issues before on the trip in nicer looking towns.
We left Naples this afternoon for Bari and that ferry to Dubrovnik.
Thursday, 23 October 2008
A month of Steps
One month gone of the travels proper and man we've climbed a lot of steps! If step climbing started in Santorini and oh did we do steps yesterday!
To bring things up to date we traveled south from Naples to the dramatic Amalfi Coast and the town of Atrani, just 5 mins walk from Amalfi town. To get there we train'd it to Salerno to get the bus to Amalfi. It was at the bus station in Salerno we met Kety (pronounced Katie), a Canadian / Italian, also trying to figure out if we were waiting in the right place. And she speaks Italian!! The info available at Salerno wasn't too hot. Turns out we were and we all pile on the bus when it shows for one of the more interesting journeys you could do by bus. Or car for that matter! It's a beautiful journey along the road. The precipitis road I should add that certainly didn't seem built wide enough for buses especially on the hairpins. Lou noticed the lady behind me signing the cross frequently throughout! We made it of course in the hands of the experienced driver, the crazy ones being the scooter drivers! We arrived at the accomodation, with assistance from Kety's Italian, to gorgeous weather which meant an opportunitity to swim in the sea just a minute away. We're loving the warm October days. Nice time to come to Amalfi although services are winding up so wouldn't leave it much later. It's a stunning coastline with towns hugging the cliffs and built back into the ravines or up on the ridges. The square in Atrani was a good and suprisingly cheap place for a drink.
Yesterday we walked, mostly steps, from Atrani high up to Ravello along to Scala and back down to Amalfi taking in some fine fine views on the way. Wish I knew how many steps we did. It felt like thousands. We met up with Kety in the square again and this time three other Canadian travellers. You know who you are! They were staying in a B&B a heap of steps above Atrani. Getting the picture yet?! Hope you made it down them again for that early bus! Last night the lights in the square blacked out briefly to a chorus of noise from the local, seemingly bored, youth! No idea what that was about?
This morning we caught the rammed bus back to Salerno for the train back to Naples. We're on it, but it seemed touch and go given the common Salerno lack of information! We're back in Naples for our last couple of nights in Italy before heading to Bari on the east coast to catch a ferry to Croatia and our third country.
To bring things up to date we traveled south from Naples to the dramatic Amalfi Coast and the town of Atrani, just 5 mins walk from Amalfi town. To get there we train'd it to Salerno to get the bus to Amalfi. It was at the bus station in Salerno we met Kety (pronounced Katie), a Canadian / Italian, also trying to figure out if we were waiting in the right place. And she speaks Italian!! The info available at Salerno wasn't too hot. Turns out we were and we all pile on the bus when it shows for one of the more interesting journeys you could do by bus. Or car for that matter! It's a beautiful journey along the road. The precipitis road I should add that certainly didn't seem built wide enough for buses especially on the hairpins. Lou noticed the lady behind me signing the cross frequently throughout! We made it of course in the hands of the experienced driver, the crazy ones being the scooter drivers! We arrived at the accomodation, with assistance from Kety's Italian, to gorgeous weather which meant an opportunitity to swim in the sea just a minute away. We're loving the warm October days. Nice time to come to Amalfi although services are winding up so wouldn't leave it much later. It's a stunning coastline with towns hugging the cliffs and built back into the ravines or up on the ridges. The square in Atrani was a good and suprisingly cheap place for a drink.
Yesterday we walked, mostly steps, from Atrani high up to Ravello along to Scala and back down to Amalfi taking in some fine fine views on the way. Wish I knew how many steps we did. It felt like thousands. We met up with Kety in the square again and this time three other Canadian travellers. You know who you are! They were staying in a B&B a heap of steps above Atrani. Getting the picture yet?! Hope you made it down them again for that early bus! Last night the lights in the square blacked out briefly to a chorus of noise from the local, seemingly bored, youth! No idea what that was about?
This morning we caught the rammed bus back to Salerno for the train back to Naples. We're on it, but it seemed touch and go given the common Salerno lack of information! We're back in Naples for our last couple of nights in Italy before heading to Bari on the east coast to catch a ferry to Croatia and our third country.
Wednesday, 22 October 2008
Thumbs Up Pompeii
Two days ago we did a day trip to the ancient Roman city of Pompeii. Everyone's heard of Pompeii right? If not google it! For the day we teamed up with an American dude we met at the station in Naples looking equally confused about the platform we were supposed to be at with the limited info available. He was doing a short trip in Europe during a break from studying a semester in the Netherlands.
One of the surprising things about Pompeii is how large the site is and how in tact. The cool thing is that the excavation is a whole Roman town which gives a much better context to the ruins. Other ruins around the country are good, but tend to be stuck in the middle of a modern city surrounded by traffic filled roads. Here you are walking down the streets of the old town. Pavement line streets at that with houses and snack bars at each side. These people had a nice standard of living! Even running water to a degree! One of the best finds was the amphitheatre which was entered though a long tunnel into the arena. A better experience than the entrance to the Colosseum I felt. Maybe due to the lack of ticket barrier?
We didn't validate our train ticket on the way back, cos we didn't see a machine, so we got some grief for the station guards in Naples. Luckily we didn't get fined. We must do a good line in looking stupid!!
We're on the coast south of Naples right now, but more about that next time.
Sunday, 19 October 2008
Ford Capri
Well, not really. More Hydrofoil to the Island of Capri!! Took a day trip from Naples. Simply had a nice day. Did a bunch of walking around in the sunny October weather. Beautiful island, sheer cliffs and blue bays harbouring sleek white yachts. Very nice, very money. In Capri town it's one designer shop after another! Although the walking is free. We walked to Villa Jovis which was once the home of the Roman Emperor Tiberius. This was a villa with a nice view. It's now a ruin with a medieval church plonked in the middle, but the view is still nice. As it was from almost everywhere.
We are staying in Naples again tonight and tomorrow night so we can do a day trip to Pompeii.
We are staying in Naples again tonight and tomorrow night so we can do a day trip to Pompeii.
Saturday, 18 October 2008
The Roads of Rome
Yesterday we walked from the hostel to the Vatican (about 2km) where the heavens opened! Luckily Piazza San Pietro has impressive colonnades where to take shelter. Also had my first squat toilet experience there. No, not in the colonnade! Yes this is too much information, but we didn't really do alot else. The queues were long and we weren't really dressed for rain. And yes, there is a gag available but I'll leave that to you!! Typical. Ok, so we didn't "do" the Vatican, but that's ok. We weren't on a pilgrimage and didn't feel the need to tick another box. So, purchasing one of the more useful items from a street seller, an umbrella, we waked back. We could have taken the metro however there was a strike on!!
Now walking in Rome is an experience in itself especially when it comes to crossing the road. Similar in other european cities I suspect as it was in Athens, but seemed more acute in Rome. Those who have been will know what i'm talking about. It's zebra crossings and over busy roads too. At home the traffic would (eventually) stop and then you cross. Not here. You have to step out first and look committed to the action!! It's not for the faint hearted and hesitation is for the weak. Head down and marching scooters continuing to buzz past, timing their fly by to your pace. Mental, but it works and we're still here :-)
Last night it had cleared up and we went to see the Colosseum and Trevi fountain lit up. We ate pasta back near the hostel sitting next to Viper from Top Gun!!
We are now on the train to Naples...
Now walking in Rome is an experience in itself especially when it comes to crossing the road. Similar in other european cities I suspect as it was in Athens, but seemed more acute in Rome. Those who have been will know what i'm talking about. It's zebra crossings and over busy roads too. At home the traffic would (eventually) stop and then you cross. Not here. You have to step out first and look committed to the action!! It's not for the faint hearted and hesitation is for the weak. Head down and marching scooters continuing to buzz past, timing their fly by to your pace. Mental, but it works and we're still here :-)
Last night it had cleared up and we went to see the Colosseum and Trevi fountain lit up. We ate pasta back near the hostel sitting next to Viper from Top Gun!!
We are now on the train to Naples...
Thursday, 16 October 2008
Roaming Rome
The end of our second full day in Rome. So, on arrival day checked in did some washing etc. Oh get this. Guide book says hostel has laundry... It don't. However has a deal with laundry / internet joint (good idea) down the road and it works out pretty cheap. Oh and guide book says hostel has kitchen... It don't! So we have to eat out. Oh dear I hear you cry, but seriously, we were looking forward to making our own food. Cheap eating out = take away pizza and there is only so much you can eat before the arteries give up right! By the way we ate Italy's second cheapest 'out' option that night... yup, pasta!
Yesterday we hit the streets of Rome on a sight seeing mission to the Colosseum, a monument requiring no introduction, followed by the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. All good stuff, made me want to watch Gladiator, but enough ruins for one day.
Today we strolled Rome's historic centre including the Pantheon, Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain. To avoid just ticking boxes we decided to go for a proper meal for lunch that didn't involve pizza or pasta! We took a recommendation from the guide book on a smallish place on the cross roads of two narrow streets not a million miles from the Pantheon. Superb. Enjoying great lunch (and service) soaking up a bit of the cities atmosphere, scooters nipping by, the occasional "you're gonna hit, oh you've made it" van squeezing past along with various characters walking on by. A couple of hours in Rome very well spent.
Yesterday we hit the streets of Rome on a sight seeing mission to the Colosseum, a monument requiring no introduction, followed by the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. All good stuff, made me want to watch Gladiator, but enough ruins for one day.
Today we strolled Rome's historic centre including the Pantheon, Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain. To avoid just ticking boxes we decided to go for a proper meal for lunch that didn't involve pizza or pasta! We took a recommendation from the guide book on a smallish place on the cross roads of two narrow streets not a million miles from the Pantheon. Superb. Enjoying great lunch (and service) soaking up a bit of the cities atmosphere, scooters nipping by, the occasional "you're gonna hit, oh you've made it" van squeezing past along with various characters walking on by. A couple of hours in Rome very well spent.
Tuesday, 14 October 2008
Ta Ta Tuscany
This update comes to you from the train heading south to Rome. Yesterday we headed west from Siena to the coast just south of a place called Livorno itself just south of Pisa. On the way we visited another Tuscan hill town of Voltera. Not as fine an example as the previous towns, but ok for a stop. We were camping last night on the coast as we needed to return the car to Pisa airport which is south of the city. We pulled up at the reception to be greeted by a man who looked about as interested to be there as we did 10 minutes later! The place seemed a bit grim. They advertise as open all year, but we wondered why they bother. Half the facilities were in lock down. This site and area was like a tired british seaside town, but with less to do! Nevermind our site had a sea view deck and sitting there with a beer things seemed ok. Until we ordered the pizza! How hard is it to do a decent pizza? Disappointed. This morning we checked out from staff who couldn't really be bothered to open the reception. Soon be in Rome though :-)
Sunday, 12 October 2008
Towering Tuscany
It's been another pleasantly hot day in Tuscany and once again we are enjoying the atmosphere and wine of Piazza del Campo. Today we drove to the highest of Tuscan hill towns - Montepulciano. Very pleasant it was too, although a small german child didn't seem to be liking it as we caught him having the biggest tantrum ever. Wished we could speak german to see what the fuss was about. Naughty step required! We got back to Siena a little earlier and strolled the streets including climbing a high arch for fab views of the town and surrounds before returning to the Piazza for food and wine.
Saturday, 11 October 2008
Shimmy to St. Jimmy
So, we've camped in Pisa for the last two days, but moved on today to the Tuscan hill town of Siena. We are currently sitting with a litre of rather fine house wine in the rather fine Piazza del Campo. Pisa has the Tower and, John you were right, not a lot else. In fact the area of the tower includes the fine, although over shadowed, Duomo and Baptistry in the same stone and style. If there is other worthy sites in Pisa then not much is made of them by the town. The tower area is a victim of it's own success of course being lined with tat hawkers. Not just tat though, all manner of crap. If I go to see an ancient monument what makes people think that I want to buy a flying toy helicopter, a fake Louis Vuitton handbag or a 'humourous apron'! It was passing the Tower after probably the worst pizza ever that Louise nearly got her purse pinched. Luckily she felt something and was able to move away suspecting foul play. Close call and not a pleasant end to our stay. We used Pisa as a base to rent a car for Tuscany and sort accom for Rome though. We drove here to Siena today with a slight detour the excellent unspoilt medievil hill town of San Gimignano. Rather barbaricly scottish-ized to St. Jimmys!! The campsite here is better than Pisa and we are returning after the wine and great atmosphere in Siena's main Piazza. Tomorrow we drive more of Tuscany.
Thursday, 9 October 2008
Wednesday, 8 October 2008
Venice
So, this is the end of our second full day in Venice. We arrived on Monday afternoon and strode almost immediately to Piazza di San Marco. This was so we could find our way there and know how long it took as we planned to rise early the following day to see the square at sunrise. It took 30 minutes. It was a fine evening so we looked around before returning to the hotel.
The following day we made it up and out the door for 6:30am. San Marco was dead apart from a few locals setting up for the day or going to work and a few photographers (with bored looking partners in tow!!). It was a pleasant morning although not the amazing sunrise we has hoped for due to cloud. Took a bunch of photos anyway and walked back to the hotel within plenty of time to eat (a great) breakfast. The hotel is a surprise modern enclave amongst all the old buildings of Venice tucked away down a narrow ally. The breakfast here, like the previous Italian breakfasts, includes sachets of Nutella, which Louise has been going mad for!
The guidebook says everyone has expectations about Venice and they are right of course. How could anyone not have ideas of the Venice of TV, Movies and literature. To be honest we both expected to be disappointed! Probably expecting too much and feeling that the hype could never be lived up to. We haven’t been disappointed!
So what makes Venice special? Is it the canals? That may seem like an obvious suggestion, but standing on the Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal yesterday made the answer real to us. Yes, the Basillica di San Marco is a marvel, but the canal in action is where the energy is. From the lumbering waterbuses, goods barges, ‘tourist experience’ Gondolas to the sleek and super stylish water taxis that seemed to effortlessly manoeuvre the canal, controlled with apparent ease by the driver, one finger on the steering wheel. Those boats are so James Bond!!
Today’s Venice exists almost entirely to service the tourists, but it’s been nice to see the canals having purpose too. Deliveries are water based as is the ‘garbage truck’, the police and ambulance also cruise the waterways. Walking is the most used form of transport for us tourists by the way and boy did we do a lot of that. Gondolas are expensive unless in a group of six, but we did ride a Gondola. The 0.50 euro Traghetti (Gondola Ferry) that simply goes across the canal. So yes, we can say we rode a Gondola in Venice! The only other non walking we did was to catch the water bus to San Marcos this morning. The ride was to experience Venice from the water.
Venice is busy, but not as busy as I was expecting. Enough to create a buzz, but not so badly heaving as to be unable to move or find a quiet street or square. Maybe it’s the time of year? There has also not been the reported smell either. It’s supposed to be bad in summer. Oh, apart from the smell of the fish markets!!
The downside is the price tag! Venice is expensive. It’s a simple matter of “because they can”. Eating out is extortion near the prime spots. Down at Piazza di San Marco the cafes charge €8.50 for a cappuccino!! That’s about £7, or 20AUD for a coffee. It’s €10 for a beer too. That’s the kind of prices that would make a Norwegian squirm!! We were there just before 12pm and only a handful of people took up some of the many many tables! Wonder why. Obscene prices like that would suggest they are trying to price people out of Venice. It’s not the case. All people are coming. They are just not drinking coffee!!
We liked Venice. Other towns are prettier, but it’s different. No cars, the canals. How long has it got though? So many buildings look on the verge of collapse and the tide is rising!!
The following day we made it up and out the door for 6:30am. San Marco was dead apart from a few locals setting up for the day or going to work and a few photographers (with bored looking partners in tow!!). It was a pleasant morning although not the amazing sunrise we has hoped for due to cloud. Took a bunch of photos anyway and walked back to the hotel within plenty of time to eat (a great) breakfast. The hotel is a surprise modern enclave amongst all the old buildings of Venice tucked away down a narrow ally. The breakfast here, like the previous Italian breakfasts, includes sachets of Nutella, which Louise has been going mad for!
The guidebook says everyone has expectations about Venice and they are right of course. How could anyone not have ideas of the Venice of TV, Movies and literature. To be honest we both expected to be disappointed! Probably expecting too much and feeling that the hype could never be lived up to. We haven’t been disappointed!
So what makes Venice special? Is it the canals? That may seem like an obvious suggestion, but standing on the Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal yesterday made the answer real to us. Yes, the Basillica di San Marco is a marvel, but the canal in action is where the energy is. From the lumbering waterbuses, goods barges, ‘tourist experience’ Gondolas to the sleek and super stylish water taxis that seemed to effortlessly manoeuvre the canal, controlled with apparent ease by the driver, one finger on the steering wheel. Those boats are so James Bond!!
Today’s Venice exists almost entirely to service the tourists, but it’s been nice to see the canals having purpose too. Deliveries are water based as is the ‘garbage truck’, the police and ambulance also cruise the waterways. Walking is the most used form of transport for us tourists by the way and boy did we do a lot of that. Gondolas are expensive unless in a group of six, but we did ride a Gondola. The 0.50 euro Traghetti (Gondola Ferry) that simply goes across the canal. So yes, we can say we rode a Gondola in Venice! The only other non walking we did was to catch the water bus to San Marcos this morning. The ride was to experience Venice from the water.
Venice is busy, but not as busy as I was expecting. Enough to create a buzz, but not so badly heaving as to be unable to move or find a quiet street or square. Maybe it’s the time of year? There has also not been the reported smell either. It’s supposed to be bad in summer. Oh, apart from the smell of the fish markets!!
The downside is the price tag! Venice is expensive. It’s a simple matter of “because they can”. Eating out is extortion near the prime spots. Down at Piazza di San Marco the cafes charge €8.50 for a cappuccino!! That’s about £7, or 20AUD for a coffee. It’s €10 for a beer too. That’s the kind of prices that would make a Norwegian squirm!! We were there just before 12pm and only a handful of people took up some of the many many tables! Wonder why. Obscene prices like that would suggest they are trying to price people out of Venice. It’s not the case. All people are coming. They are just not drinking coffee!!
We liked Venice. Other towns are prettier, but it’s different. No cars, the canals. How long has it got though? So many buildings look on the verge of collapse and the tide is rising!!
Monday, 6 October 2008
Train to Venice
We're sitting on a train heading to Venice. Will be there soon. So famous, so we'll fine out for ourselves what the fuss is all about! Will be there for three nights.
Sunday, 5 October 2008
Leaving the Lakes
Today we left Varenna by ferry and then from there to Bergamo. We staying in Bergamo Alta, the old walled city that sits above the new town. To get here we walked to the funicular and were squeezed on with the other sardines! The Atla was hoachin' with what mostly appeared to be Italians. Maybe the locals come here for a wander of a Sunday afternoon? We joined them in strolling the area that's straight out of the middle ages.
Lago di Como
We left Como on thursday for Menaggio taking the ferry. It was a cloudy day. Low cloud hanging in the valley gave the mountains a moody atmosphere. The hotel in Menaggio had a small balcony that over looked a square (piazza) and served an awesome continental breakfast. After this on friday we walked up the valley to a small chapel and view point called La Crocetta. Although the weather was still stormy the views both ways down the valley were fantastic. Just before the chapel were some old trenches from the first world war. Part of a defense line called Linea Cadorna that ran along the Swiss Italian border. The atmosphere here was quite eerie with the ting ting of a flag pole, distant thunder, the chat chat chat of a far off building site like faint gun fire, the sound of a small propeller plane, the icy fingers reaching around the back of my neck... Oh no, that was just Louise trying to warm her hands. The day had started with early hail and in the evening we saw snow on the mountains as the weather lifted. ---- In the morning we took the ferry to Varenna and a lake view room. A bit of a treat. Varenna is another very pretty lake side town with narrow streets and steep lanes. We walked up above the town to an old castle as recommended by the hotel receptionist as it was a lovely sunny day and the views of Lake Como were the best. She wasn't wrong. The small castle featured a tower where the top provided a 360 degree view of the surrounds. We had the tower top to ourselves for a good 15 minutes. The season here is definitely at an end as it has been very quiet. The castle area also featured some birds of prey including the biggest owl I thought possible!
Wednesday, 1 October 2008
Como Town
Arrived by train this afternoon after flying from Athens to Malpensa (nr. Milan). John left for home today too. Hope you got that early bus. Thanks for the metro ticket :-) That will be our last flight for a while which is good for me as I can pack my rucsack differently. Better organised without having to think about it's treatment at airports. I've got a vivid green sack to keep all the straps in as well. The affectionately named 'Bogey Bag' is easy to spot on the baggage belt! Not a great welcome from the man behind the reception in the hotel. He is a right grumpy old git. The place is nice enough though with a great shower especially compared to the Greek places we were at. They had showers, but the head is not attached to the wall. Makes things a bit more hassle. Anyone comment on why that is? The Como hotel also seems to have sheets for towels? They do work a lot better than you'd think mind you. Is this normal? Guess we'll find out. Como pleasantries were also restored by a very nice lady in the information office :-) Took our second funicular in two days up the side of the lake valley for hazy views of Como town and lake. It's quiet here compared to Athens. Not that this is a bad thing. Heading up the lake tomorrow by ferry to chill out for a few nights :-)
To the Italian Lakes
We're on the train heading north from Milan to Como. Looking forward to a couple of days at lake Como.
Acropolis, Adonis and Agoras
Leaving Athens now after a successful two days tour of the city's very old sights. The Acropolis, of course, home to the Parthenon amongst other ruins. There is constantly scaffolding here, but is still impressive. Moving on we walked down through the Theatre of Dionysos. Hard to believe it once held 17000 people. If you've heard of Hadrians wall, well he also has an arch here. We passed this on the way to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Once a massive structure only a few giant columns remain. It was here whilst trying to take a picture of Zeus's impressive columns I stepped back and fell over a rock. Got a few scrapes, but managed to not land on the camera. Looked up to see Louise pointing and chuckling! It would have looked funny I suppose. No picture of that you'll be disappointed to know. The market places of the Roman Agora and the Ancient Agora followed. I realised at lunch (over a less than well cooked chicken souvlaki. John's pork one being even less cooked!) that I must have fallen one my glasses case and had bent the arm. So it was off to an optician who worryingly man handled the arm straight and stuck through a new screw with bolt!! I now have Frankenstein's glasses! I expected damage, but not less than two weeks :-( We stayed in the Hotel Adonis in the area called Plaka which sits in the shadow of the Acropolis. The hotel was neither particularly cheap nor special, but the location was great and had a rooftop breakfast room / bar with an Acropolis view. Plaka is an old part of town with loads of restaurants and tourist tat shops. It's quite pretty and we ate here nicely for the three nights. We put our laundry in to get done. They do it for you and charge by the kilo, but our clothes came back smelling mildly of cigarette smoke! The staff smoke inside the laundry. Interesting! Lycabettus Hill rises up sharply from inner Athens and provided sweeping views over Athens. There is a funicular that runs to the top, but it seemed like you had to climb half way up to get to that! The National Archeological Museum didn't impress Lou and I too much although we're not really big museum people. There are some cool statues, but there is just too much similar stuff. Last night we ate at Zorbas!
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